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In the heart of Bari Vecchia, the old town of Bari, lies a curious relic of the past known as the "Head of the Turk." On the lintel of a modest house at Quercia street n° 10, the carved visage of a man adorned with a moustache and turban stirs intrigue and whispers of ancient legends. This depiction is believed to represent Mufarrag, a Saracen warrior who once ruled over the city, but whose reign was marred by conflict and rejection.
The history of Bari is rich and layered, tracing back to its founding by the Peucetii, a tribe of the Italic people, around the 8th century BC. Over the centuries, Bari became a significant port, grappling with various powers, including the Romans, Byzantines, and later the Normans. The city flourished during the Middle Ages, notably becoming a crucial center for trade and maritime activities in the Mediterranean. By the 11th century, Bari was a prominent hub for the Crusaders, as it served as a launch point for their expeditions into the Holy Land.
The tale of Mufarrag is steeped in local legend. According to lore, he attempted to convert the townsfolk to Islam, an endeavor that earned him the animosity of the local population. In a bid to win their favor, he challenged the fearsome Befanì, a mythical hag associated with the winter festivities in Italian folklore. The night of December 5 is particularly notable, as it is said that Befanì would emerge to confront those who crossed her path, and during one such encounter, Mufarrag met his grim fate. His severed head, rolling down the street, came to rest in the very lintel where it remains today—a poignant reminder of the city's tumultuous past.
Exploring Bari is akin to stepping into a living museum, where art and architecture intertwine seamlessly. The city's Romanesque architecture is exemplified by the magnificent Basilica di San Nicola, built in the late 11th century to house the relics of Saint Nicholas. Its striking façade and intricate stone carvings reflect the artistry of the period, drawing pilgrims and visitors alike. The Castello Normanno-Svevo, a fortress constructed in the 12th century, stands as a testament to the city's defensive prowess and historical significance. Its imposing structure, with thick walls and towering battlements, offers panoramic views of the surrounding coastal area.
In addition to its historical architecture, Bari is also home to vibrant local traditions. The city's cultural identity is celebrated through various festivals, such as the Festa di San Nicola, held in May. This lively event attracts locals and visitors who gather to honor the patron saint with processions, music, and culinary delights. Another significant celebration is the Festa della Madonna dei Martiri, which takes place in August, showcasing a rich tapestry of religious devotion intertwined with local festivities.
The gastronomic scene in Bari is a delightful exploration of flavors and traditions. The city is renowned for its orecchiette, a small, ear-shaped pasta that is often served with a simple sauce of turnip tops and chili. This dish embodies the essence of Apulian cuisine, where fresh, local ingredients take center stage. Visitors should also indulge in focaccia barese, a soft, olive oil-rich bread topped with tomatoes and herbs, perfect for a casual snack while wandering the streets. Don't miss the opportunity to sample taralli, a crunchy snack that pairs beautifully with local wines, particularly the bold Primitivo di Manduria.
Beyond the well-trodden paths, Bari is filled with lesser-known curiosities that enrich the visitor experience. The story of the "Head of the Turk" is just one of many legends that permeate the fabric of the city. Another intriguing detail is the Bari Vecchia’s winding alleys, where local women can often be seen making orecchiette by hand, a practice passed down through generations. The charm of this old town lies not only in its historical significance but also in the everyday lives of its residents, who uphold traditions that might otherwise fade away.
For those planning a visit, the best time to explore Bari is during the spring and early fall when the weather is mild, and the city is alive with events. Take time to stroll the narrow streets, appreciating the intricate details of the architecture and the vibrant street life. Be sure to visit the Basilica di San Nicola and the Castello Normanno-Svevo, as well as indulge in the local culinary delights at one of the many trattorias that line the cobbled streets.
In conclusion, Bari is a city where history, culture, and gastronomy converge, offering an authentic experience that goes beyond the surface. Whether you're captivated by the legend of the "Head of the Turk" or indulging in the rich flavors of local cuisine, Bari promises a journey that lingers in the heart and mind. To make the most of your trip, consider using the Secret World app to craft a personalized itinerary that uncovers the hidden gems of this enchanting city.
