From the high part of Beas de Guadix, a small municipality in the province of Granada, the gaze falls on one of the most unusual landscapes of Andalusia: a labyrinth of clay ravines, towers of eroded earth, and ochre valleys that stretch towards the Sierra Nevada. This corner of the comarca of Guadix is known for its particular geological formations, shaped over the centuries by the erosion of water on sedimentary soils of lacustrine origin.
Beas de Guadix is located about 50 kilometers east of Granada, in the plateau that precedes the Geoparque de Granada, recognized by UNESCO as a global geopark in 2020. The surrounding territory belongs to that transitional zone between the snowy mountain and the semi-aridity of the Hoya de Guadix, where the light changes color with the hours of the day in a visible way, documented by anyone who has traveled these roads at sunset.
The landscape of the badlands seen from above
Looking northwest from the elevated points around the village, the badlands appear as a natural sculpture in continuous motion: early in the morning, when the light is slanting, each ridge casts a sharp shadow that outlines almost architectural profiles. The dominant colors are light beige, the gray-green of the clays, and the rusty red of the more exposed areas. In certain stretches, the formations resemble the so-called “fairy chimneys”, pinnacles of earth topped with a cap of harder rock that has resisted erosion.
In the late afternoon, especially in autumn and winter when the sun sets early on the western horizon, the same clays take on orange and pink hues that contrast with the white of the snow on the Sierra Nevada in the background. It is during these hours that the chromatic difference between the arid landscape in the foreground and the snow-capped peaks becomes more pronounced and photographically interesting.
The geological context of the Geopark of Granada
The Guadix-Baza area is characterized by lake sediments deposited during the Miocene and Pliocene, when the entire depression was occupied by an inland lake. Differential erosion has then sculpted the current shapes, highlighting layers of different composition and hardness. This process is still active: intense rains, typical of the autumn season, modify the profiles of the badlands each year in a noticeable way.
The Geopark of Granada, which includes this territory, comprises over 170 cataloged geosites. Visiting the area of Beas de Guadix allows for direct observation of some of the most representative formations without the need for specialized guides for the main routes, although the informational panels of the geopark help to contextualize what is seen.
How to organize the visit
The best time to appreciate the views is in the early hours of the morning or in the two hours before sunset, when the side light enhances the reliefs and color contrasts. At noon, with the overhead light, the formations lose visual depth and the colors flatten. In summer, the heat can be intense as early as 10 in the morning, so it is preferable to go out before 9.
Beas de Guadix is reachable by car from the A-92, the highway that connects Granada to Almería. The town does not have its own train station, but nearby Guadix, about 10 kilometers away, is served by regional trains from Granada. Those traveling without a car can rent a vehicle in Granada or use the bus services of the region, checking the updated schedules at the Guadix station. For the trails in the badlands, it is advisable to wear shoes with non-slip soles, as the clayey ground becomes very slippery after rain.
What to observe on site
In addition to the erosive formations, in the surroundings of Beas de Guadix, it is possible to notice the traditional cave houses carved into the clay walls, a type of housing still in use throughout the Guadix region. Some of these homes are visible from the road and feature white facades with regular doors and windows, while the interior develops within the rock. The internal temperature remains constant throughout the year, around 18-20 degrees, making them cool in summer and warm in winter without the need for air conditioning systems.
The village itself is small and quiet, with essential services. For a meal or a coffee, it is more practical to move to Guadix, where there are bars and restaurants in the historic center near the 16th-century cathedral. Keeping an eye on the weather forecast is useful: with a cloudy sky, the badlands lose much of their chromatic effect, while a day with some high clouds can create interesting light plays on the reliefs.
