A path without signs, the jungle closing above your head, then suddenly the water: turquoise, flat, almost still. Biesanz Beach does not announce itself. It simply appears in front of you, after a walk of about ten minutes through the tropical vegetation near Manuel Antonio, in the Quepos district on the Pacific coast of Costa Rica. It is a small cove protected by two rocky promontories that block the waves and create a natural pool of rare tranquility.
While the nearby beach of Manuel Antonio National Park welcomes hundreds of visitors every day, Biesanz remains off the radar of most tourists. There are no facilities, no kiosks, no sunbeds for rent. What you find is dark sand with golden reflections, water shifting from emerald green to turquoise depending on the hour and the light, and the constant and unmistakable sound of howler monkeys — the howler monkeys — moving among the treetops surrounding the cove.
How to reach the beach and what to expect
Access to Biesanz Beach is via an unmarked path that starts from the main road near the Biesanz Hotel — one of the few reliable landmarks for orientation. The path is short but requires suitable shoes, especially during the rainy season, which in this area of Costa Rica typically runs from May to November. The trail surface can become slippery, and some sections descend steeply towards the shore.
The beach itself is small: it stretches for no more than a hundred meters, with vegetation almost reaching the water on both sides. Don't expect infinite space, but rather a feeling of almost total intimacy. On weekdays, especially in the morning, it is possible to find the beach practically deserted. On weekends, the situation can change, with a few more local visitors.
The water and unique atmosphere of the cove
What makes Biesanz truly different from other beaches in the area is the quality of the water. The two headlands that delimit the inlet act as a natural barrier against the currents of the Pacific, making the sea calm even when the waves are strong elsewhere. The color of the water visibly changes throughout the day: in the early morning it tends to a deep green, almost opaque, while in the central hours direct light transforms it into a bright turquoise with silver reflections on the surface.
The sand has a mixed composition, with darker grains compared to the coral beaches of the Costa Rican Caribbean. It is not the fine white postcard sand, but has a compact texture and a coloration that varies from beige to gray-gold. Walking barefoot is pleasant and the water temperature, typical of the tropical Pacific, hovers around 27-29 degrees Celsius in the hottest months.
The fauna: howler monkeys and more
The true distinguishing element of Biesanz compared to any other hidden beach is the sound context. The howler monkeys (Alouatta palliata), one of the most common species in the Manuel Antonio region, emit a deep and guttural call that can be heard from a great distance. Hearing them while you are in the water, with the forest surrounding you on three sides, is an experience that no equipped beach can replicate.
In addition to howler monkeys, the area is also frequented by white-faced capuchin monkeys, easily spotted among the low branches of the trees. It is important not to approach or offer food: these are wild animals and human-altered feeding behavior causes documented health problems in the local animal population. Observing from a respectful distance is enough to enjoy the spectacle.
Practical tips for the visit
The best time to visit Biesanz Beach is early in the morning, preferably before 9:00 AM. The light is softer, the heat is still bearable, and the likelihood of finding the beach almost to yourself is much higher. Bring plenty of water, as there are no refill points along the trail or on the beach. A waterproof bag for electronic devices is advisable, as humidity during the rainy season is very high.
There are no entrance tickets or official opening hours, but it is essential not to confuse this beach with the beaches inside Manuel Antonio National Park, which does require an entrance fee and has a maximum daily number of visitors. Biesanz is outside the park and access is free. Bring back everything you take with you: there are no trash bins and the cove owes its beauty also to the absence of litter.