The water emerges from the underground at 65°C, so hot that it creates a thin mist that hovers over the surface of the Miño River in the early hours of the morning. In Caldas de Outariz, a few kilometers east of Ourense, in Galicia, this natural geothermal energy is channeled into a series of free public pools dug directly along the riverbank, where the temperature is regulated by mixing the thermal water with that of the Miño until reaching the ideal 35-40°C for bathing.
This is not a wellness center built around an artificial spring: the pools of Caldas de Outariz are public outdoor facilities, accessible to anyone without paying a ticket, immersed in a natural setting where the riverside vegetation descends to the water and the sound of the river accompanies every dip. This makes the place profoundly different from traditional European spa resorts.
The geology that feeds the pools
Ourense is one of the cities with the highest concentration of natural hot springs on the Iberian Peninsula. The area is crossed by geological faults that allow the water to heat up deep underground and rise to the surface at high temperatures. In Caldas de Outariz, the springs have been known and used since Roman times, although the current structures are the result of modern interventions that have channeled and organized access to the waters.
The waters have a mineral composition rich in sodium and bicarbonates, typical characteristics of Galician geothermal springs. Visually, the most immediate signal of the presence of the springs is the steam rising from the water on cooler days, visible both at dawn and in winter, when the thermal contrast between the air and the water is more pronounced.
The experience in the river pools
The pools are arranged in multiple levels along the riverbank, connected by walking paths. Some pools are smaller and more intimate, while others are larger and more frequented. The temperature varies slightly from pool to pool depending on the distance from the spring and the flow of cold water from the Miño that mixes in. Those who arrive in the late afternoon often find the pools warmer, while early in the morning the presence of other visitors is minimal.
Dipping into the thermal waters of Caldas de Outariz means standing still in the warm water while watching the river flow, surrounded by trees and granite rocks typical of the Galician landscape. There are no sun loungers by the pool, background music, or immediate dining services: the environment is essential, and this essentiality is an integral part of the experience. Visitors bring their own towels and change in the public changing rooms available at the facility.
How to get there and when to go
Caldas de Outariz is located along the road that runs alongside the Miño river heading east from Ourense. By car, the journey from the city takes about 15-20 minutes. It is also possible to reach the area by local public transport, although the frequencies are limited, especially on weekends. Many visitors combine the visit with a walk along the riverside path that connects various thermal springs in the area.
The best time to visit Caldas de Outariz is in autumn or winter, when the low outside temperatures make the immersion in the hot water even more enjoyable and the visual contrast with the steam is more spectacular. In summer, the pools become quite crowded, especially on weekends in July and August, when the wait to find a spot in a pool can be long. Arriving in the early hours of the morning, around 8:00-9:00, ensures greater tranquility in any season.
Practical tips for the visit
Access to the public pools of Caldas de Outariz is free, but it is necessary to bring a swimsuit, towel, and flip-flops. Changing rooms are available but not always equipped with lockers, so it is advisable to leave valuables in the car or bring a personal lock. The facility is generally open during daylight hours, but hours may vary depending on the season and weather conditions.
Those who suffer from high blood pressure or have cardiovascular conditions should consult a doctor before immersing themselves in high-temperature waters. For those in good health, a stay of 20-30 minutes per session is considered sufficient to benefit from the relaxing effects of the thermal waters without overexerting the body. After immersion, a walk along the path that runs alongside the Miño is the best way to conclude the visit.
