The light flashes every five seconds, visible for miles of open ocean. The Cape Brett lighthouse stands at the extreme tip of the peninsula that closes the Bay of Islands to the east, in New Zealand's Northland, and there are no shortcuts to get there: just two days of walking on a coastal path through subtropical forests, wind-swept ridges, and descents to coves where dolphins swim just a few meters from the shore. This isolation is not a flaw — it is exactly the point.
The Cape Brett Track starts from Rawhiti, a small Māori settlement accessible from Russell, the first European capital of New Zealand. The trail stretches for about 16 kilometers towards the tip, with an overall elevation gain that tests the legs but rewards with views that span the Pacific Ocean on one side and the Bay of Islands on the other. The final destination is the Cape Brett Hut, a shelter managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC) located just a few steps from the historic lighthouse, where one can stay overnight before returning the next day.
The history of the lighthouse: a beacon of light since 1910
The Cape Brett lighthouse was built in 1910 to signal one of the most important navigation points on the northern coast of New Zealand, where trade routes to Auckland and the Pacific dangerously converged near the rocks. The original wooden structure was later replaced by a concrete tower that still dominates the cliff today, painted white and visible from afar against the deep green of the coastal vegetation.
For decades, the lighthouse was manned by keepers who lived in total isolation, periodically supplied by sea. The keepers' houses — some of which today host the Cape Brett Hut and its beds — are sturdy constructions that tell the spartan life of those tasked with keeping the light burning. The lighthouse was automated during the twentieth century, but the tower is still operational and its light continues to flash in the night over the Tasman Sea.
The trekking: two days between forest and ocean
The Cape Brett Track is classified as a tramping track by the DOC, which means it requires hiking experience and appropriate equipment. The 16 kilometers one way is not particularly long, but the terrain is challenging: the trail continuously rises and falls along the ridge of the peninsula, with exposed sections where the Atlantic wind can be fierce and sections of dense forest where roots emerge from the red soil. The average time to reach the hut is 5-7 hours, depending on the pace and breaks.
Along the way, it is common to spot seabirds nesting on the cliffs, including the Australasian gannet with its characteristic white and yellow plumage. Approaching the tip, the trail offers glimpses of Piercy Island — also known as Motukōkako — a rock formation with a natural arch that boat tours from the Bay of Islands pass through. Seeing it from above, from the trail, is a perspective that no catamaran passenger can have.
The Cape Brett Hut: sleeping in the lighthouse
The Cape Brett Hut offers dormitory beds for a maximum of 24 people and must be booked in advance through the DOC website, especially during the Australian summer months (from November to March). The cost per night is around 20-25 New Zealand dollars per person, a symbolic amount for a night spent just a few meters from a functioning lighthouse with the ocean stretching to the horizon. The hut is equipped with a shared kitchen, running water, and basic facilities, but does not guarantee electricity: bringing a flashlight is essential.
At sunset, when other hikers sit on the rocks in front of the lighthouse, it is possible to observe the light beginning its regular rhythm in the darkening sky. In fortunate conditions, common dolphins (Delphinus delphis) can be seen swimming in the waters below the cliff, attracted by the currents colliding at the tip of the peninsula. It is one of those moments when isolation stops feeling like a sacrifice and becomes the very reason for the journey.
How to organize the visit
The starting point of the trek is the small village of Rawhiti, reachable from Russell in about 45 minutes by car on a dirt road. Russell can be reached from Paihia by a passenger ferry that takes a few minutes. It is essential to book the hut well in advance on the DOC website and check the weather conditions before departing: the exposed ridge of the peninsula can become dangerous with strong winds or heavy rain. The best time for trekking is from December to March, when the days are long and the chances of stable weather are higher. Bring at least two liters of water per person for the first day, enough food for both nights, and waterproof clothing even in summer: the weather in Northland changes rapidly.
