Under the cobblestones of Cariñena, about 50 kilometers southwest of Zaragoza, there are galleries carved into the living limestone that date back to the Middle Ages. These underground cellars were not built in a specific documented era as an architectural monument, but were formed and expanded over the centuries, used by Aragonese farmers to store wine at a constant temperature, away from the dry heat of the meseta. Walking inside them means feeling the temperature change within a few steps: outside, in summer, it easily exceeds 35 degrees; inside, the rock maintains a stable coolness around 12-14 degrees all year round.
Cariñena is also the name of one of the oldest Denominations of Origin in Spain, officially established in 1932, among the first in the country to receive this recognition. The area has been producing wine for centuries, and the Garnacha grape — called Grenache in France and the rest of the world — finds one of its chosen terroirs here, with clay-limestone soils, marked temperature variations, and an altitude that in some areas exceeds 700 meters above sea level.
The territory and the grape variety
The DO Cariñena extends over approximately 14,000 hectares of vineyards in the province of Zaragoza, in the autonomous community of Aragon. The vineyards grow on a plateau bordered to the north by the Sierra de la Virgen and crossed by the Huerva river. The wind called Cierzo — a cold and dry mistral that descends from the Pyrenees — is one of the characteristic elements of the terroir: it dries the humidity, reduces vine diseases, and helps produce healthy grapes with thick skins.
The Garnacha is the dominant grape variety, but the denomination also allows Tempranillo, Mazuela (the French Carignan, which takes its name from this region), Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Merlot for reds, and Macabeo, Moscatel, and Chardonnay for whites. The Garnacha Viñas Viejas — produced from vines over 50 years old, often trained as bush vines — yields wines of great concentration, with notes of ripe red fruits, spices, and sometimes a mineral touch reminiscent of wet stone.
The underground cellars: what you see and hear
The medieval cellars carved into the limestone beneath the village streets are one of the most physically striking elements of the visit. Some of these galleries reach depths of 8-10 meters below street level and develop into networks of connected corridors, where in the past each family stored their own amphorae and barrels. The walls still show the marks of the tools used to carve the rock, and in some places, niches carved directly into the limestone can be seen, probably used to hold candles.
The cellar Grandes Vinos y Viñedos, founded in 1997 by a cooperative of local producers, is now one of the main producers of the denomination and offers guided tours that include both the modern winemaking facilities and access to the historic underground sections. During the visit, it is possible to observe French and American oak barrels arranged in the stone chambers, and participate in structured tastings that touch on different production styles: from fresh rosés to aged reds from the Corona de Aragón line, one of their most well-known references in the international market.
The Tasting Experience
The guided tastings at Grandes Vinos follow a path that starts with the lighter wines and progresses to the more structured reserves. A typical tasting includes a white from Macabeo, a rosé from Garnacha — often one of the most interesting wines of the session, due to its freshness and intense salmon color — and two or three reds of different aging. The prices for visits with tastings generally range between 10 and 20 euros per person, but it is advisable to check the updated rates directly on the winery's website before departing.
Those accustomed to formal tastings may be surprised by the artisanal and direct nature of the experience: the guides are often locals, with a concrete and practical knowledge of the area, rather than textbook sommeliers. This makes the visit less theatrical but more authentic.
How to organize the visit
Cariñena is easily reachable by car from Zaragoza by taking the N-330 southbound: the journey takes about 45 minutes. There is no direct train connection, and public transport is limited, so a car is practically essential. The best time to visit is during the harvest, which generally takes place in the area between September and October: the town comes alive, the wineries organize events open to the public, and the vineyards display the ripe clusters ready for harvest. It is advisable to avoid the month of August during the central hours of the day: the heat is intense and some facilities reduce their hours. A complete visit with tasting takes about two hours.
