At a 1,949 meters above sea level, the summit of Cerro Uritorco dominates the Sierras Chicas with a presence that can be felt from below, from the town of Capilla del Monte, in the province of Córdoba. It is the highest peak of this mountain range, and the trail that leads to the starting base of the trek begins a few kilometers from the center of the town. Early in the morning, when the light is still gray and the air smells of damp earth and jarilla bushes, locals begin to ascend silently, headlamps on, knowing that it takes on average three to four hours to reach the summit.
Cerro Uritorco is also at the center of one of Argentina's most deeply rooted legends: the area of Capilla del Monte has been considered for decades a UFO sighting point, and every year it attracts visitors who combine trekking with an interest in the region's extraterrestrial folklore. Whether one believes these stories or not, the mountain remains a physically extraordinary place, with views that change color and depth depending on the time of day.
The dawn from the base: when the sky turns orange over the valley
The most awaited moment for those who climb is the dawn. Starting from the base of the trail in the dark hours, one reaches the altitude when the sun begins to color the eastern horizon with a progression of tones ranging from deep purple to burnt orange, up to the light yellow that invades the Punilla Valley. From up here, one can see the profiles of the towns that dot the valley — Cosquín, La Falda, Cruz del Eje in the distance — like small clusters of light that slowly awaken.
The valley opens wide and flat between the two mountain ranges, the Sierras Chicas to the east and the Sierras Grandes to the west. With a clear sky, on the clearest days of the southern winter, visibility allows one to distinguish the reliefs of the Sierras Grandes that exceed 2,800 meters, creating a sharp contrast between their darker peaks and the lightening sky. It is one of the few peaks of the Sierras Chicas from which one can enjoy such a complete view of both ranges.
The central hours: harsh light and colors of the mountain savanna
In the late morning, when the sun is already high, the landscape changes character. The vegetation covering the slopes — dry grasses, low shrubs, a few willow trees — takes on ochre and olive green tones that under direct light appear almost metallic. The sky of the Argentine plateau, at these latitudes and altitudes, tends to be a deep and uniform blue that is not easily found at lower elevations.
During the central hours, the heat can be significant, especially in the southern summer between December and February. The wind on the ridge is constant and can be strong, which makes the perceived temperature more bearable but requires attention to balance on exposed sections. The trails are well-frequented on weekends, and along the way, one often encounters groups of trekkers from Córdoba capital who come here for day hikes.
The sunset: long shadows and pink on the Sierras Grandes
Those who choose to ascend in the afternoon to witness the sunset experience a different but equally intense chromatic experience. The shadows quickly stretch across the eastern slopes, while the sun descending towards the Sierras Grandes tints those peaks pink and then purple. The Punilla Valley falls into shadow before the summit, creating a grazing light effect that highlights every irregularity of the terrain.
At this time of day, silence is more pronounced: many hikers have already descended, and the mountain regains a quiet that the central hours do not allow. It is also the moment when the temperature drops rapidly, and those who are not equipped with a second layer risk feeling cold even before starting the descent.
Practical tips for trekking
Access to the trail starts from the area of the base of Cerro Uritorco, reachable from Capilla del Monte with a short taxi ride or a twenty-minute walk from the center. A fee is required to enter the park, the cost of which varies and it is advisable to check on-site or on the Capilla del Monte municipality website before the visit. The route does not require technical equipment, but sturdy-soled hiking shoes are essential: the terrain is uneven and slippery in some sections.
The most useful advice is to start before dawn, around 4:30 or 5:00 in the morning, to reach the summit at the right time. Bring at least one and a half liters of water per person, a warm layer for the summit, and a headlamp. Avoid the ascent on days with forecasts of afternoon thunderstorms, which are common in summer: thunderstorms in the Sierras arrive quickly and exposed sections at altitude do not offer shelter.
