The trail starts from Villa O'Higgins, at the end of Route 40, and rises through lenga forests — the southern beech of Patagonia — until the trees open up to a water surface that looks painted. Lake of the Desert is located about 37 kilometers north of El Chaltén, in the heart of Argentine Patagonia, and its name is not a metaphor: here the silence is so dense that it seems like a physical presence. Few lakes in the world can reflect the surrounding mountains so clearly, and this is one of them.
About 15 kilometers long and surrounded by almost untouched forests of Nothofagus pumilio — the lenga that turns red and orange in the southern autumn — the lake occupies a valley carved by glaciers over millennia. Its waters, fed by the melting of the ice from the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, the second largest extrapolar ice field in the world after Antarctica, have a hue that ranges from emerald green to slate gray depending on the light and the season. It is not a photographic effect: it is glacial sedimentation that colors the water naturally.
How to reach the lake and how long it takes
From El Chaltén, the village founded by Argentina in 1985 — partly to assert sovereignty over a territory contested with Chile — you take a dirt road north. It is possible to reach the trailhead by car or with one of the transfer services that depart from the town. From there, the main trek runs alongside the lake for about 4 kilometers along the eastern shore, with a modest elevation gain that makes it accessible even to those without mountaineering experience. The complete round trip takes between 4 and 6 hours at a leisurely pace.
Alternatively, there is a boat service that travels the lake from south to north, allowing you to reach the northern shore and from there continue towards the Chilean border. This option is particularly appreciated by those who want to combine trekking with a lake crossing, but the boat schedules vary seasonally and it is advisable to check availability in advance at the tourist offices in El Chaltén. The most important practical advice: leave by 8 in the morning, because the Patagonian wind — the famous viento que enloquece — tends to intensify in the afternoon, making the walk more tiring and the reflections on the water less perfect.
What can be seen along the path
The trail crosses wetland areas where ñires and calafate grow, the wild shrub with purple fruits that according to local legend guarantees a return to Patagonia for those who taste them. Along the shore of the lake, one encounters gray pebble beaches where it is possible to stop in total solitude — a rarity compared to the more frequented trails around Fitz Roy, which are less than 30 kilometers away in a straight line. The difference in crowding between the two places is stark: while the Fitz Roy trails can count hundreds of hikers per day during the high season, at Lake of the Desert one often walks alone for hours.
Towards the northern part of the lake, the Vespignani glacier descends from the slopes of the mountain range and overlooks the water. The glacial front is not as imposing as that of Perito Moreno, but its isolated position makes it even more striking: it is possible to observe it up close without any tourist infrastructure of any kind, just rock, ice, and water. The sounds of the settling ice — crackles and sudden pops — can be clearly heard on calm days.
When to go and what to bring
The best season runs from November to April, with the peak between December and February when the days last up to 17-18 hours. September and October are transition months with snow still present on the trails, while in March and April the lenga begins to change color, offering spectacularly colorful landscapes. Entry to the area is free, but it is necessary to register at the Parque Nacional Los Glaciares before departing — the office is located in El Chaltén and registration takes just a few minutes.
Your backpack should not lack thermal layers even in summer, because the temperature can drop by ten degrees in less than an hour with the arrival of the wind, and a waterproof jacket is essential. The water from the lake and the side streams is drinkable after filtration, but it is advisable to bring at least two liters from home. There are no shelters along the main route, nor refreshment points: the Lago del Desierto has remained exactly what its name promises, a place far from everything, where Patagonia still shows its most authentic face.
