354 kilometers from the coast of Pernambuco, Fernando de Noronha emerges from the Atlantic as a group of 21 islands and islets of volcanic origin, of which only the main island is open to visitors. The most recognizable peak of the archipelago is the Morro do Pico, a basalt needle that rises 323 meters above sea level and can be seen from almost every beach on the island, dominating the landscape like a natural monolith. Classified as UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001, this territory is now considered one of the most rigorously managed marine protected areas in Brazil.
Access to the archipelago is deliberately limited. Every visitor is required to pay a daily environmental fee (TPA) that increases progressively with the number of days spent on the island, a mechanism designed to discourage overly long stays and keep the number of tourists present at the same time low. The resident population is about 3,000 inhabitants, and the local economy revolves almost entirely around controlled tourism and artisanal fishing.
A marine ecosystem without equal
The waters around Fernando de Noronha host one of the largest colonies of bottlenose dolphins (Stenella longirostris) in the southern Atlantic. Every morning, hundreds of individuals enter the Baía dos Golfinhos to rest in the calm waters of the bay, a spectacle observable from the top of the promontory that overlooks it. Entry into the water in the bay is prohibited to protect the dolphins, but the view from above at dawn is already extraordinary in itself.
Below the surface, dive sites such as Laje Dois Irmãos and the area of Cabeço das Cordas offer visibility that often exceeds 30 meters, with frequent encounters with green and loggerhead sea turtles, manta rays, and barracuda. Sea turtles nest on the island's beaches between December and May, and during that time it is possible to participate in monitoring programs managed by the Projeto TAMAR, the Brazilian organization for the protection of sea turtles that has been active on the island for decades.
The beaches: landscapes of basalt and red sand
The Praia do Sancho is accessible only by descending through a crevice in the volcanic rock via two metal staircases fixed to the wall, a physically demanding path that leads to one of the most isolated beaches on the island. The sand here has a reddish hue due to the mineral composition of the surrounding basalt rocks, and the natural pools formed by the rocks on either side of the beach allow for snorkeling even for those who are not divers.
The Baía do Sueste, on the other hand, is the best place to spot sea turtles while snorkeling, with shallow and clear waters where the animals feed on algae. Entry into the water is allowed but regulated: the use of approved fins and masks is mandatory, and it is not permitted to touch or chase the turtles. Local guides, present at almost all sites, enforce these rules carefully.
History: from the Portuguese to the military base
The archipelago was first sighted by Amerigo Vespucci in 1503 during a Portuguese expedition, and the name comes from Fernão de Loronha, a Portuguese merchant who obtained the concession of the island from the Crown. Over the centuries, the island was contested between the Portuguese, Dutch, and French, and the Forte dos Remédios, built by the Portuguese in the 18th century, is still visible in the northern part of the island as a testament to this colonial and military past.
During the 20th century, Fernando de Noronha was used as a penal colony and later as a military and air base. The runway built during that period is still in use today, and the planes that land mainly come from Recife and Natal, the two Brazilian cities with direct flights to the island. The flight from Recife takes about 90 minutes.
Practical tips for organizing the visit
The best time to visit Fernando de Noronha is between August and December, when the rains are less, the sea is calmer, and underwater visibility is at its best. From January to April, the rains are more frequent, but it is also the time when turtles nest, which can make the trip equally interesting for those interested in marine wildlife. The rainy season does not exclude activities, but it is advisable to bring a light raincoat.
It is essential to book accommodation and flights well in advance, especially for the months of July and December, when demand is very high. There are no large chain hotels on the island: most accommodations are pousadas run by families, often with few rooms. The cost of living on the island is significantly higher than on the Brazilian mainland, as almost everything is imported by air or sea. Bringing cash is advisable, as not all establishments accept credit cards.
