A sea lion approaches just a few centimeters from your snorkel, gazes at you with curious eyes, and then glides away with a pirouette. In the Galapagos, the wildlife has not learned to fear humans, and this absence of fear is perhaps the most extraordinary thing a traveler can experience. The archipelago, located in the Pacific Ocean about 1,000 kilometers from the coast of Ecuador, consists of 13 main islands, 6 smaller islands, and dozens of volcanic islets.
It was here that Charles Darwin, during his voyage aboard the Beagle in 1835, observed the variations between species from one island to another — finches with different beaks, tortoises with differently shaped shells — gathering observations that would later contribute to his theory of evolution by natural selection, published in 1859 with On the Origin of Species. The Galapagos National Park, established in 1959 and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, today protects about 97% of the land area of the archipelago.
A fauna that knows no fear
Walking among the colonies of marine iguanas on Fernandina or Santa Cruz Island means moving slowly, not out of respect for the rules — although they exist, and they are strict — but because the animals simply do not move. The marine iguanas, the only lizards in the world capable of feeding in saltwater, gather on the black lava rocks and completely ignore you. The golden plovers and swallow-tailed gulls nest just a few steps away from the marked trails.
The blue-footed boobies — known as blue-footed boobies, or Sula nebouxii — perform their courtship dance by alternately raising their bright blue, almost fluorescent feet. It is a spectacle that can be observed with the naked eye, without binoculars, from a distance of one meter or less. On Española Island, one of the southernmost, there are some of the densest colonies of this species.
The giant tortoises and the Darwin Center
The giant tortoises of the Galapagos (Chelonoidis niger) can live over 100 years and weigh more than 200 kilograms. In the interior of Santa Cruz, in the area called El Chato, it is possible to observe them freely in their natural habitat, as they move slowly among the vegetation of the transition zone. The visit takes about two hours and can be reached by taxi or bike from the town of Puerto Ayora.
In Puerto Ayora, there is also the Charles Darwin Research Station, founded in 1964, where a breeding and reintroduction program for endangered tortoises is active. Here, it is possible to see specimens of different subspecies at various stages of growth. The station is open to visitors and admission is free, although a donation is appreciated to support conservation projects.
Snorkeling and Underwater Life
Under the surface of the water, the Galapagos offer a marine ecosystem of rare complexity. The convergence of different ocean currents — the cold Humboldt Current coming from the south and the warm Panama Current from the north — creates conditions that support exceptional biodiversity. While snorkeling in the waters near Santa Cruz or San Cristóbal Island, it is common to encounter green sea turtles, blacktip reef sharks, manta rays, and schools of colorful tropical fish.
The Galapagos sea lions (Zalophus wollebaeki), endemic to the archipelago, are the most frequent and playful swimming companions. The pups in particular tend to mimic the movements of divers, approaching with a curiosity that can be almost touching. The best snorkeling sessions are in the early morning when the water is calmer and visibility is greater.
Practical tips for visiting the Galapagos
Access to the archipelago is by air from Quito or Guayaquil to the airports of Baltra (near Santa Cruz) or San Cristóbal. Upon arrival, it is mandatory to pay the entrance fee to the National Park, which is 100 dollars for foreign tourists (rate updated to 2024). Each visitor must also purchase a transit card (INGALA) costing about 20 dollars.
The best time to visit the Galapagos depends on interests: from December to May the sea is warmer and calmer, ideal for snorkeling; from June to November the cold currents bring more nutrients, favoring the sighting of whales and hammerhead sharks. In any case, it is advisable to book tours and accommodations at least three or four months in advance, especially for boat trips (liveaboard), which allow access to the more remote and less frequented islands.
