A dull roar can be heard from hundreds of meters away, then the air becomes humid and cold, and finally she appears: Gullfoss, the glacial waterfall that plunges in two distinct drops for a total of 32 meters into a gorge carved by the Hvítá river over millennia. We are in the Biskupstungur region, in southwestern Iceland, along that tourist circuit known as the Golden Circle which connects some of the island's most dramatic natural formations. Here the landscape is anything but decorative: it is brutal, alive, in constant motion.
The name Gullfoss literally means "golden waterfall" in Icelandic, a reference to the amber color that the water takes on when sunlight passes through it at certain times of the day. The Hvítá river — which in Icelandic means "white river" — originates from the Langjökull glacier, the second largest glacier in Iceland, and carries glacial sediment-laden waters to Gullfoss that give the waterfall its characteristic milky and opaque hue. This is not clear mountain water: it is heavy, ancient water that carries with it the memory of ice.
The power of water and the perpetual mist
Approaching the waterfall means crossing an area of permanent mist generated by the impact of water on the bottom of the gorge. This constant humidity creates the ideal conditions for the formation of rainbows that appear almost every hour on sunny days, often double, suspended above the canyon like private meteorological phenomena. The visitor who positions themselves on the walking paths that line the waterfall — some of which lead just a few meters from the edge of the precipice — finds themselves literally immersed in this mist, with their clothes becoming damp in just a few minutes.
The average flow of the Hvítá river at Gullfoss is about 140 cubic meters per second, but during the spring thaw, it can exceed 2,000 cubic meters per second, transforming the waterfall into something almost unimaginable. The canyon into which the water plunges reaches a depth of about 70 meters and extends nearly 2.5 kilometers to the east, creating a sharp fracture in the surrounding lava landscape that seems almost artificial in its linearity.
The story of Sigríður and the protection of the site
Gullfoss has not always been protected as it is today. In the early 1900s, foreign investors proposed to exploit the waterfall to produce hydroelectric power. It was Sigríður Tómasdóttir, the daughter of the local landowner, who strongly opposed the project, even threatening to throw herself into the waterfall in protest. The project ultimately failed for economic reasons, but Sigríður is remembered as one of the first Icelandic environmentalists. A statue of her is located near the site, and her name is still evoked as a symbol of resistance to speculation on the natural landscape. In 1975, Gullfoss was officially protected as a nature reserve.
This story gives a different meaning to the visit: walking along the paths that lead to the waterfall means traversing a place that someone was determined to safeguard, at a time when environmental protection was not yet a widespread concept. The visitor center at the site hosts a small exhibition dedicated to Sigríður and the history of the waterfall.
The fauna and vegetation around the waterfall
The landscape around Gullfoss is dominated by mosses and lichens that cover the lava rocks with a variety of greens, grays, and yellows. In summer, some species of waterfowl frequent the banks of the Hvítá river upstream of the waterfall. The snow bunting and various shorebirds appear seasonally in this area, while in the waters of the river, it is possible to observe the presence of trout and salmon during migrations. The ecosystem is fragile and closely dependent on the quality of the glacial water.
Shrub vegetation — mainly dwarf birch and creeping willows — appears sporadically in areas sheltered from the wind, but the landscape remains essentially open, dominated by rock and water. It is an environment that offers no ornaments: everything that exists here has a precise function in the local ecological chain.
Practical tips for the visit
Gullfoss can be reached by taking road 35 from the interior of Iceland, about 120 kilometers from Reykjavík. The site is accessible year-round, but in winter the road conditions can be difficult and some trails may be closed for safety. The best time to visit is early in the morning, when organized tour groups have not yet arrived and the low light creates special chromatic effects on the mist. Always bringing waterproof clothing is essential: the mist from the waterfall can soak you in just a few minutes even on sunny days. Allow at least an hour and a half to walk all the trails at a leisurely pace. Entrance to the site is free; parking is paid.
