At about 850 meters above sea level, in the heart of the mountains of Nagano Prefecture, steam rises thick from the hot spring as a family of Japanese macaques slowly slips into the steaming pool. The monkeys have soaked fur, half-closed eyes, the same blissful expression of those who have found the right place to be. Jigokudani Park — whose name literally means “Hell Valley” — is named after the jets of steam and boiling water that gush directly from the rock, creating an extraordinary visual contrast with the snow that covers the valley floor for much of the year.
Located in the town of Yamanouchi, in the Nagano region, the park is accessible via a 1.6-kilometer forest trail that starts from the Kanbayashi Onsen parking lot. There are no paved roads leading directly to the pools: one walks among beech and fir trees laden with snow, hears the sound of the Yokoyu-gawa stream flowing beneath the ice, and then, almost suddenly, the outdoor hot spring appears with its furry guests. It is one of the few situations in the world where wild animals regularly frequent a hot spring area shared with human visitors — although the pools are separate.
The history of the park and the hot spring macaques
The Japanese macaques (Macaca fuscata) began to frequent the hot waters of Jigokudani in the 1960s. The first monkey to enter the pool was, according to local chronicles, a young female who approached the hot spring around 1963. The behavior quickly spread within the social group, passed down by imitation from generation to generation. Today, the group counts about 160 individuals, although not all bathe simultaneously: on the coldest winter days, between December and March, the number of monkeys in the pools peaks.
The park is managed by the local association and entry for foreign visitors costs about 800 yen (the price may vary, it is advisable to check before visiting). The area is open year-round, but the most picturesque time is undoubtedly winter, when snow accumulates on the branches and on the heads of the monkeys immersed in the hot water, creating the images that have made Jigokudani famous worldwide.
The thermal experience: heat, steam, and silence
The waters of Jigokudani reach high temperatures at the source — around 45 degrees Celsius — and are channeled into open-air baths where the temperature drops to more tolerable levels. The macaques remain immersed for long periods, and researchers have observed that the hot spring bath seems to reduce hormonal stress levels in the animals, measured through fur samples. It is not superficial tourism: it is scientifically documented animal behavior.
For human visitors, the experience is contemplative. One does not enter the same baths as the monkeys — the hot springs for guests are located in the ryokan and hotels in the area of Shibu Onsen and Kanbayashi Onsen, just a few kilometers away. Some facilities offer access to outdoor baths (rotenburo) with views of the snowy forest, allowing the atmosphere of the park to be extended even after the visit.
How to get there and practical advice
The reference station is Yudanaka, reachable by train from Nagano station via the Nagano Dentetsu line in about 40 minutes. From Yudanaka, local buses depart for Kanbayashi Onsen, from where the walking trail to the park begins. Alternatively, it is possible to take a taxi from the station. The 1.6-kilometer walking path is generally passable but can be slippery in winter: shoes with non-slip soles or removable crampons are strongly recommended.
The best time to visit is early in the morning when there are still few tourist groups and the monkeys are more active. During the peak winter season, especially on weekends, the park can become crowded in late morning. It is important not to approach the monkeys, not to try to touch them, and not to eat in their presence: signs at the entrance remind visitors of these rules, which serve to maintain the natural behavior of the animals. Bringing a camera with a decent zoom allows you to observe the details — the expressions, the wet fur, the little ones clinging to their mothers — without disturbing the group.
Staying in the area: ryokan and onsen
The Shibu Onsen area, a short distance from the park, offers a range of traditional ryokan with access to nine public outdoor baths scattered throughout the village. Staying at least one night in this area allows you to experience the Japanese hot spring experience in its most authentic form: yukata, kaiseki dinner, and the entirely Japanese habit of soaking in the hot waters the evening before sleeping. Jigokudani is not just a photographic attraction: it is a place where the boundary between the animal world and the human ritual of wellness through hot springs becomes unusually thin.
