In the northeastern region of Colombia's Caribbean coast, the vast desert plains of the Guajira Peninsula stretch towards Venezuela. Here, at the northern tip of South America, the arid landscape receives little respite from the sparkling turquoise waters of the Caribbean Sea. Amidst this breathtaking and untouched scenery, the indigenous Wayúu tribe has valiantly defended their traditions and cultural heritage for centuries, facing the challenges of colonialism in the past and the encroachment of modern globalization in the present.The Wayúu people rely on local industries such as craftsmanship, renowned for their intricate woven textiles and bags adorned with traditional designs, as well as animal husbandry and agriculture. The arid terrain of La Guajira is not particularly conducive to agriculture, but the cowpea thrives in its soil, and has become a cherished dietary staple. Locally known as kapeshuna, the cowpeas of La Guajira come in various varieties, with small mottled pods in shades of gray, red, bluish gray, brown, and white. Planting season begins just before the arrival of the rainy months, which fall between March and October. Wayúu men dig furrows in the earth, while women and children follow, carefully scattering a handful of seeds in each furrow. According to the tribe's beliefs, it is the union of Juyakai (the male spirit of rain) and Pulowi (the female spirit of drought) that brings forth the growth of these beans. During auspicious occasions and rites of passage, such as a Wayúu girl's first period, these protein-rich beans are transformed into a flavorful and hearty stew known as poy, cooked together with corn and lamb fat.More recently, the unique qualities of these beans have captured the attention of renowned chefs in the world of fine dining, with Michelin-star establishments in Bogotá occasionally featuring them on their menus. At Leo, chef Leonor Espinosa garnered acclaim for her celebrated kapeshuna bean truffle, skillfully incorporating locally sourced anise and a native fruit called jumbalin. While this particular dish may no longer be available, it was said to evoke the smooth texture and delicate, honeyed flavor reminiscent of foie gras.
