The mud reaches the ankles after just a few kilometers, and the forest closes above the head like a green tunnel that almost completely excludes sunlight. The Kokoda Track is a trekking route of 96 kilometers that crosses the Owen Stanley Range in Papua New Guinea, connecting the village of Kokoda in the north with Owers' Corner in the south, near Port Moresby. It is not a trail for those seeking comfort: the total elevation gain exceeds 2,000 meters, and the highest point of the route reaches about 2,190 meters above sea level near the Kokoda Pass.
The trail is also known for its historical weight: during the Second World War, between 1942 and 1943, Australian and Papuan soldiers fought here against the Japanese advance in extreme conditions. But it is nature that dominates every step, every climb, every descent into the mud. The primary jungle that covers these mountains is one of the densest and biologically richest in the Pacific, and crossing it on foot is an experience that is hard to forget.
An Out-of-Scale Biodiversity
Papua New Guinea is home to about 5-7% of the planet's living species on less than 1% of the world's land surface, and the rainforest surrounding the Kokoda Track is a direct window into this abundance. Along the trail, it is possible to observe dozens of species of birds of paradise, including the Raggiana Bird-of-Paradise (Paradisaea raggiana), the national bird of Papua New Guinea, recognizable by the long red and yellow feathers that males display during courtship rituals. Its penetrating call is often heard in the early hours of the morning, when the forest is still shrouded in mist.
The vegetation changes with altitude in a visible and surprising way. At lower elevations, sago palms and fruit trees cultivated near Orokaiva villages dominate. As you ascend, the forest becomes denser and wetter, with tree ferns that can exceed 5 meters in height, moss covering every surface, and wild orchids growing directly on the trunks. In the higher areas, near the passes, the vegetation transforms into misty montane forest, with shorter, twisted trees wrapped in continuous layers of lichens.
The Jungle Fauna: What to Expect
In addition to the birds, the Kokoda Track offers close encounters with a surprisingly rich fauna. The cassowaries, large flightless birds that can exceed one and a half meters in height, move through the low forest and are occasionally spotted in the early morning hours. It is important to keep your distance: these are wild animals that can become aggressive if they feel threatened.
The butterflies of Papua New Guinea are among the largest in the world: the Ornithoptera alexandrae, known as the Queen Alexandra's butterfly, is the largest butterfly species in existence, with a wingspan that can reach 28 centimeters in females. Although it is rare and protected, some related species of the genus Ornithoptera can be spotted along the trail. At night, tree frogs fill the forest with sounds, and those sleeping in the village huts along the trail can hear the chorus amplify in the darkest hours.
The Orokaiva Villages and the Relationship with Nature
The route passes through a series of villages belonging to the Orokaiva people, who have inhabited these mountains for generations and maintain a direct and daily relationship with the forest. Local guides, required by law and for practical reasons of safety and orientation, often belong to these communities and represent an irreplaceable source of natural knowledge. They are the ones who indicate the medicinal plants traditionally used, identify the songs of the birds, and explain which wild fruits are edible.
In the villages, there are huts made of bamboo and wood where trekkers sleep during the stages. Do not expect tourist facilities: the meals are simple, the water needs to be purified, and electricity is absent in most stops. However, this isolation is an integral part of the experience: the forest here is not a backdrop, it is the total environment in which one completely immerses oneself.
Practical tips for those who want to tackle the trail
The best time to walk the Kokoda Track is between May and October, during the dry season. In the wet months, the path becomes extremely slippery and some crossings can be dangerous. The average duration of the complete route is 8-12 days, depending on pace and physical fitness. It is mandatory to register with the Kokoda Track Authority, which manages permits and ensures that each group is accompanied by certified guides. The cost of the permit is around 250 Australian dollars per person, but it is subject to change: always check the updated rates before departure.
Bringing trekking shoes with a sturdy non-slip sole, quick-drying clothing, and a well-stocked first aid kit is essential. Phone connectivity is absent for almost the entire route, and physical preparation must be serious: many trekkers train for months before tackling the trail. Those who arrive unprepared risk having to abandon the route, with complex logistical consequences in such a remote area.
