At a 4,300 meters above sea level, where the air is so thin that every breath requires a conscious effort, there stretches a surface of water of such an intense green that it seems unreal. The Laguna Verde, located in the Potosí department, in the far southwest of Bolivia, on the border with Chile, owes its extraordinary color to the presence of arsenic and magnesium dissolved in the volcanic waters. It is not an optical illusion, it is not a photographic filter: it is pure chemistry, made visible in one of the most remote corners of the planet.
In the background, the Licancabur volcano, with its almost perfect conical shape reaching 5,916 meters, completes a picture of rare visual power. On clear mornings, when the wind has not yet rippled the surface of the lake, the reflection of the volcano mirrors in the green water like in a glass screen. It is one of those moments when nature seems deliberately theatrical, almost constructed to amaze.
A lake that changes color throughout the day
What makes the Laguna Verde truly unique is not just its color, but its variability. In the early morning, with the wind still absent, the water appears a deep emerald green, almost opaque. As the hours progress and the wind intensifies — common in this area of the Andean plateau — the surface becomes agitated and the color shifts towards lighter and more turbulent shades, leaning towards turquoise. The suspended minerals react to light differently depending on the solar angle and the movement of the water.
Next to the Laguna Verde is the Laguna Blanca, separated from it by a thin strip of land. The two lagoons create an immediate chromatic contrast: one white, the other a deep green. The Laguna Blanca owes its color to the presence of calcium carbonate. Observing both together, with the Licancabur in the background, is one of the most distinctive views of the entire Andean region.
How to reach such a remote place
The Laguna Verde is not easily accessible independently. It is located within the Eduardo Avaroa Andean Fauna National Reserve, a protected Bolivian area covering over 714,000 hectares of high plateau, volcanoes, and lagoons. Access is almost exclusively through organized tours of 3 or 4 days that depart from the city of Uyuni, the gateway to the famous Salar de Uyuni. These tours follow the so-called southwestern Bolivian circuit, touching the salt flat, the colored lagoons, and the geysers of Sol de Mañana.
The entrance fee to the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve is about 150 bolivianos for foreign visitors (equivalent to about 20 US dollars, subject to change). The jeep journey from the city of Uyuni to Laguna Verde typically takes two days of driving, crossing dirt roads and lunar landscapes. There is no public transport: jeeps with local guides are the only practical means.
Altitude sickness: the risk that no one should underestimate
At a 4,300 meters altitude, altitude sickness — known in Bolivia as soroche — is a real possibility for anyone who is not acclimatized. The most common symptoms include headaches, nausea, fatigue, and breathing difficulties. Before embarking on the southwestern Bolivian tour, it is strongly recommended to spend at least two or three days in Uyuni or Potosí to allow the body to adjust to the altitude, which in that area already exceeds 3,600 meters.
Many travelers take acetazolamide (Diamox) on medical advice as a prophylactic against altitude sickness. Local guides also recommend chewing coca leaves, a traditional Andean remedy widely available in the region. Drinking plenty of water, avoiding alcohol in the early hours, and moving slowly are simple yet effective measures to enjoy the landscape without suffering.
The right time to visit the Laguna Verde
The best time to visit the Laguna Verde is during the Bolivian dry season, which runs from May to October. In these months, rainfall is rare, the skies tend to be clear, and the dirt roads of the reserve are passable without the risk of mud or flooding. The rainy season, from November to March, can make some sections of the route impractical and significantly reduce visibility.
The ideal time to arrive at the lagoon is early in the morning, preferably by nine o'clock. The afternoon wind is almost constant in this area and quickly ripples the surface of the water, making it impossible to see the reflection of the Licancabur. Organized tours take this factor into account and schedule arrival at the lagoon in the early morning hours, often after a night spent in spartan but functional shelters along the way. Bringing thermal layers is essential: nighttime temperatures drop well below zero even in the southern summer.
