At over 5,000 meters above sea level, the Nevado del Ruiz dominates the horizon with its ice cap and steam plumes. This active volcano, sadly known for the eruption of 1985 that destroyed the city of Armero causing over 20,000 casualties, is today the heart of the Los Nevados National Natural Park, a protected area of about 58,300 hectares that extends between the departments of Caldas, Risaralda, Quindío, and Tolima, in the central Colombian Andes.
The park is mainly accessed from Manizales, the capital of the department of Caldas, by traveling along the Vía al Parque Nacional Los Nevados, a road that quickly ascends through landscapes that change with altitude: from misty forests to the open expanses of the páramo, the high-altitude Andean ecosystem that hosts extraordinary biodiversity often invisible to hurried visitors.
The páramo and the giant frailejones
Entering the páramo of Los Nevados means walking among one of the most unique floras on the planet. The frailejones — plants of the genus Espeletia — grow here in dense colonies, with their rosettes of silvery leaves covered in fuzz and stems that can exceed two meters in height after decades of very slow growth. These plants are adapted to retain moisture and survive the nighttime frosts that characterize the high-altitude climate, where temperatures can drop below zero even in broad daylight.
The páramo is not just a backdrop: it is a vital hydrological system for millions of Colombians. Its plant sponges collect water from the fog and rain, feeding rivers and aqueducts. Walking among the frailejones early in the morning, when the fog slowly dissolves and the leaves shine with drops of water, is a sensory experience that is hard to describe and impossible to forget.
The fauna: condor and more
The Andean condor (Vultur gryphus) is the symbol animal of these places and its presence in the park is documented, although sightings are not guaranteed. With a wingspan that can exceed three meters, the condor takes advantage of the thermal currents that form along the volcanic slopes to glide for hours without flapping its wings. The early hours of the morning, when the currents begin to form, are the best time to observe it in flight.
The fauna of the park also includes the Andean tapir (Tapirus pinchaque), a critically endangered species, the páramo deer, and numerous species of hummingbirds that feed on the flowers of the frailejones. Local guides know the best routes and observation points: relying on them is not only recommended but mandatory to access many areas of the park.
The hot springs and the volcanic landscape
The active volcanism of the area is spectacularly manifested in the hot springs found in the park area and its surroundings. The warm, mineral-rich water flows from the underground at varying temperatures and creates surreal landscapes where steam mixes with the mist of the páramo. Some of these springs are accessible to visitors and offer the possibility of a rejuvenating bath after the efforts of high-altitude trekking.
The volcanic landscape also features expanses of lava rock, small glacial lakes, and, on clear days, the view of the snow cap of Ruiz reflecting the sunlight. It is important to remember that the volcano is constantly monitored by the Volcanological and Seismological Observatory of Manizales and that access to certain areas may be restricted based on the level of volcanic alert, which varies periodically.
Practical tips for the visit
Departure from Manizales typically occurs in the early morning hours, as clouds tend to accumulate in the afternoon obscuring the view of the volcanoes and making the trails slippery. Trekking in the park requires good physical preparation and, above all, acclimatization: the altitude quickly exceeds 3,500 meters and symptoms of altitude sickness can manifest even in trained individuals. It is advisable to spend at least one night in Manizales — already at 2,150 meters — before ascending.
Layered clothing is essential: even in summer, morning temperatures are close to zero and the wind can make the thermal sensation even lower. Guided excursions can be booked through local agencies in Manizales or directly at the entrance of the park. The entrance ticket to the national park has differentiated rates for foreigners and Colombian residents, in line with the policy of Parques Nacionales Naturales de Colombia. Bringing plenty of water, high-protection sunscreen, and energy snacks is crucial: the altitude increases caloric needs and UV radiation is intense even with a cloudy sky.
