Under the plain of Dobruja, a few kilometers from the Black Sea, lies a labyrinth of galleries carved into the limestone that houses thousands of barrels and demijohns. We are in Murfatlar, in the easternmost wine region of Romania, where the wind blowing from the Pontus Euxinus and the calcium-rich soil create unique conditions for viticulture. The underground cellars of the Murfatlar winery extend for several kilometers underground, maintaining a constant temperature throughout the year that favors the slow and regular aging of the wines.
The winemaking history of this area dates back to antiquity, but the modern Murfatlar winery was founded during the Romanian socialist period, in the 1950s, when the State invested heavily in industrial winemaking aimed at export. In the years following the fall of communism, the winery was privatized and gradually oriented its production towards higher quality standards, while maintaining a production scale that places it among the largest in the country.
The terroir of Dobruja and the leading grape varieties
The microclimate of Murfatlar is characterized by hot and dry summers, relatively mild winters thanks to the influence of the Black Sea, and one of the highest annual sunshine levels in Romania. The calcareous soil, low in organic substances but well-drained, forces the vine roots to dig deep in search of water, concentrating the aromas in the fruit. These conditions prove to be particularly favorable for aromatic white grape varieties.
The Murfatlar Chardonnay is considered one of the best in Romania: it stands out for an unusual acidic freshness in such warm climates, with notes of exotic fruit and a slightly buttery finish in the barrel-aged versions. Even more characteristic is the Muscat Ottonel, a grape variety that in Murfatlar reaches exceptional aromatic maturity, with intense aromas of rose, lychee, and candied orange. In some vintages, it is also produced in a sweet or dried version, with residual sugar that pairs perfectly with local aged cheeses. Among the reds, Cabernet Sauvignon and Fetească Neagră — a native Romanian grape variety — complete the range with tannic structure and notes of dark fruit.
The visit to the underground cellars
Descending into the cellars of Murfatlar is a physically perceptible experience: the temperature drops sharply compared to the outside, the air becomes humid and fragrant with wood and wine, and the galleries illuminated by soft lights open into large halls where orderly rows of oak barrels fade into the darkness. The cellar offers guided tours that traverse part of the underground system, showcasing the different stages of winemaking and aging.
During the tour, it is possible to closely observe the French and Romanian oak barrels used for aging, as well as the ancient fifty-liter glass demijohns that are still used today for some reserve wines. The final tasting, included in the visit, allows you to sample generally three or four selected labels, accompanied by local bread and cheeses. The cellar staff is accustomed to receiving foreign visitors and often an English-speaking guide is available in addition to Romanian.
How to organize the visit
Murfatlar is located about 15 kilometers west of Constanta, the main city on the Romanian Black Sea coast. The most convenient way to reach the winery is by car or taxi from Constanta, a journey that takes about twenty minutes. Alternatively, there are local buses that connect Constanta to the town of Murfatlar, although with limited frequency. The best time to visit is September and October, during the harvest: the vineyards are laden with ripe clusters, the air smells of fermented must, and the atmosphere of the winery is particularly lively.
It is advisable to contact the winery in advance to book the guided tour, especially in the summer months when tourist groups from the coast can be numerous. Avoid showing up without a reservation on weekends in August, when the winery can be overwhelmed by tourists passing through from Constanta and Mamaia. The visit with tasting lasts on average one and a half hours, but those who wish to delve deeper can opt for more extensive packages that also include a meal at the facility.
What to take home
The winery has a shop where you can buy bottles directly at prices lower than those in large distribution. It is worth looking for the reserve labels, particularly the late Muscat Ottonel and the aged versions of Chardonnay, which are rarely found outside Romania. The prices are accessible compared to Western European standards, making the visit convenient even for those who want to make a small stock to bring back in their luggage.
Murfatlar represents a privileged observation point on a wine tradition that Western Europe still knows little about. Taking home a bottle of Fetească Neagră or Muscat Ottonel means having a tangible and drinkable memory of this corner of Romania overlooking the Black Sea.
