A green turtle slowly emerges from the turquoise water and drags itself onto the white sand of Nungwi, indifferent to the tourists watching it just a few meters away. This scene, far from rare at the northern tip of Zanzibar, tells better than any description the essence of this stretch of Tanzanian coast. Nungwi is one of the few places in the western Indian Ocean where the nesting of sea turtles — mainly the green turtle (Chelonia mydas) and the hawksbill turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata) — still occurs with some regularity, also thanks to the presence of a small local aquarium-shelter that houses recovering specimens before their release into the sea.
The village of Nungwi is located about 56 kilometers north of Stone Town, the historical capital of Zanzibar, and the road leading to it passes through plantations of cloves and coconut palms. But it is the sea that is the true protagonist of this corner of the island: waters that change color from emerald green to deep blue within a few strokes, animated by a biodiversity that few other places in the Mediterranean or Atlantic can match.
The Mnemba Atoll and the protected coral gardens
About three kilometers off the northeastern coast of Zanzibar lies Mnemba Atoll, a marine protected area that represents one of the best-preserved coral ecosystems in all of East Africa. The atoll, which surrounds the small private island of Mnemba, is protected as a marine reserve and is home to over 600 documented species of tropical fish, along with hard and soft corals that form structures several meters high. Snorkeling in this area means finding yourself surrounded by schools of parrotfish, moray eels peeking out from their hiding spots, and occasionally spotted rays gliding silently over the sandy bottom.
Snorkeling excursions to Mnemba regularly depart from Nungwi and Matemwe, the closest village to the atoll on the east coast. Traditional dhows — the wooden sailing boats typical of the Swahili region — transport visitors to the dive sites, where underwater visibility can exceed 20 meters on days of low current. Spinner dolphins (Stenella longirostris), named for their acrobatic leaps out of the water, frequently inhabit the waters around the atoll, especially in the morning hours.
The marine life on Nungwi beach
On the beach itself, the biodiversity is no less surprising. During low tide — which at Nungwi can lower the water level by over a meter, exposing large areas of the seabed — it is possible to observe starfish, sea urchins, small octopuses, and hermit crabs in the natural pools that form among the emerging corals. Local fishermen go out at dawn with their dhows and return mid-morning: following their boats towards shore often means witnessing a traditional fishing method that has remained largely unchanged over the centuries.
The western side of the Nungwi point has the advantage of being sheltered from the stronger currents and does not experience the extreme low tide that characterizes the east coast of the island. This makes it suitable for swimming throughout the day, unlike many other beaches in Zanzibar that become inaccessible or shallow for hours. The waters here reach temperatures between 26 and 29 degrees Celsius for most of the year.
When to go and how to get around
The best time to visit Nungwi and go snorkeling at Mnemba Atoll is between June and October, during the dry season (kiangazi), when the waters are calmer and underwater visibility is optimal. It is advisable to avoid the months of March, April, and May, when the northeast monsoon rains (masika) make the sea choppy and boat trips often impossible. The period between November and February is also generally good, with calmer seas and pleasant temperatures.
To reach Nungwi from Stone Town, you can take a daladala — the local shared minibuses — with a very low fare but unpredictable travel times, or hire a private taxi for about 25-35 US dollars. Organized snorkeling trips to Mnemba generally cost between 30 and 60 dollars per person, including equipment. An essential practical tip: apply sunscreen at least 30 minutes before entering the water, and prefer reef-safe formulas free of oxybenzone and octinoxate, chemicals documented as harmful to corals. Many local operators explicitly require this as a condition for participating in excursions in the protected area of Mnemba.
The role of the local community in conservation
The protection of the marine ecosystem of Nungwi is not just a matter of government regulations. The local community has developed over the years an increasing awareness of the link between the health of the coral reef and its own economy. The small turtle sanctuary run by volunteers and residents of the village — where it is possible to see specimens at various stages of growth before release — is a concrete example of this integration between responsible tourism and environmental conservation.
The fishermen of Nungwi have agreed with local authorities on no-take zones within the atoll, areas where fishing is completely prohibited to allow for the repopulation of fish species. This system, similar to European marine protected areas, has shown positive results in the medium term, with documented increases in fish biomass in the surrounding areas. Visiting Nungwi means therefore coming into contact with an ecosystem that, despite the pressures of mass tourism, survives thanks to a fragile but real balance between nature and human presence.
