The theater of Pergamon is tilted to such an extent that it almost seems vertical: built in the 3rd century BC on the steep side of the hill, its tiers descend at an angle of about 80 degrees towards the plain below. Sitting on these stones means looking down on modern Bergama as if about to plunge, with the Aegean inland wind rising along the slope. It is not a casual scenic effect — it was a necessary architectural choice, dictated by the morphology of the hill that the Attalid kings had chosen as the site of their kingdom.
Pergamon was the capital of the Attalid kingdom from 281 BC until 133 BC, when the last king, Attalus III, bequeathed the entire kingdom to Rome. In those 150 years, the city became one of the most vibrant intellectual and artistic centers of the Hellenistic world, with a library that according to ancient sources contained about 200,000 volumes and rivaled that of Alexandria in Egypt. Today, ascending to the acropolis of Bergama means physically traversing those centuries, stone by stone.
The Temple of Trajan and the Sacred Terrace
At the top of the acropolis stands the Temple of Trajan, one of the most imposing buildings on the site and one of the few dedicated to a Roman emperor who was deified during his lifetime. Built during the reign of Trajan (98-117 AD) and completed under Hadrian, the temple has been partially reconstructed thanks to an anastylosis intervention that has restored some of the original Corinthian columns. The result is a white colonnade that dominates the highest terrace of the acropolis, visible from kilometers away in the plain.
What physically strikes is the artificial platform on which the temple rests: the Romans built enormous underground vaults to level the uneven ground at the top of the hill. These vaulted spaces, now open to visitors, give a concrete idea of the scale of the Roman engineering endeavor. Walking beneath the arches, one can feel the weight of the structure above and understand why it took decades to complete the building.
The Altar of Zeus and Its Modern History
The Altar of Zeus in Pergamon, erected in the 2nd century BC under the reign of Eumenes II, is considered one of the masterpieces of Hellenistic sculpture. The original frieze, about 113 meters long, depicts the Gigantomachy — the battle between gods and giants — with a dynamism and expressive violence that anticipate Baroque tendencies. The problem is that this frieze is not in Bergama: it was purchased by the German engineer Carl Humann in the second half of the 19th century and transported to Berlin, where it is now displayed in the Pergamonmuseum.
On the site, only the base of the altar remains, recognizable as a large rectangular platform in the central area of the acropolis. Turkey has repeatedly requested the return of the frieze from Germany, without success until today. For those visiting Bergama, this absence is itself a tangible historical fact: one stands before one of the most important bases of ancient architecture in the Mediterranean world, emptied of its main content.
Asclepion: the sanctuary of healing
About two kilometers from the acropolis, in the plain, stands the Asclepion of Pergamon, one of the most famous sanctuaries dedicated to Asclepius in the ancient world. It was a medical-religious center where the sick were welcomed for treatments that combined religious practices, water therapies, dream interpretation, and physical treatments. Galen, the most influential physician of antiquity after Hippocrates, was born in Pergamon around 129 AD and trained in part right here.
The site preserves a colonnaded sacred way, a theater, baths, and an underground tunnel through which patients walked listening to the sound of flowing water — a form of psychological therapy avant la lettre. The tunnel is still accessible, and its darkness, interrupted by circular openings in the ceiling that filter light, creates a very particular atmosphere. The combined entrance for the acropolis and Asclepion generally costs between 10 and 20 euros, but it is advisable to check the updated rates directly on site or on the Turkish Ministry of Culture's website.
Practical tips for the visit
Bergama can be reached from Izmir in about an hour and a half by intercity buses that regularly depart from the main bus station. Once in the city, a funicular (teleferik) connects the historic center to the acropolis, avoiding the uphill walk along the paved road. The most important advice is to visit the acropolis in the early morning hours, before 9:00 AM: the slanting light enhances the textures of the stone and the temperatures are bearable even in summer, when the site can become very hot and crowded with organized groups.
It is realistic to allocate at least half a day for the acropolis and another half for the Asclepion. The Archaeological Museum of Bergama, in the city center, deserves an additional hour to contextualize the minor artifacts that remain in the area. Wearing shoes with non-slip soles is essential: the stones of the acropolis, especially near the theater, are smooth and slippery even when dry.
