At a 4,200 meters altitude, water boils out of the volcanic rock and flows into natural pools where steam mixes with the thin air of the Chilean high plateau. The Termas de Polloquere are not a spa, they have no changing rooms, they have no tourist signs. They are a series of wild hot springs that emerge directly from the salty ground of the Salar de Surire, in the Tarapacá region, in northern Chile, just a few kilometers from the Bolivian border.
What makes this place different from any other thermal experience is the absolute context: around the pools extends one of the most remote salt flats in the Andes, protected as Natural Monument Salar de Surire by CONAF, the Chilean agency for the management of natural areas. The waters are frequented by colonies of Andean flamingos — including the species Phoenicoparrus andinus — that move leisurely along the edges of the salt lake, indifferent to the few visitors who immerse themselves in the steaming pools.
The thermal experience without intermediaries
The pools of Polloquere are fed by active geothermal springs, linked to the intense volcanic activity of the area. The water temperatures range from lukewarm to decidedly hot depending on the chosen pool, and some springs reach high temperatures near the surface — it is necessary to touch the water before entering, without taking anything for granted. There are no facilities of any kind: no showers, no baths, no bars. Those who arrive must bring everything they need.
Dipping at this altitude has particular effects on the body. The air contains about 40% less oxygen than at sea level, and many visitors report a feeling of lightness and disorientation mixed with well-being during the bath. It is essential not to make sudden movements, to hydrate abundantly before and after, and to limit the time in hot water to avoid drops in blood pressure. The most practical advice is to acclimatize for at least one day at intermediate altitudes before reaching Polloquere.
The landscape around: volcanoes and salt
The Salar de Surire is surrounded by some of the highest volcanoes in the Chilean cordillera. The Volcán Guallatiri, active and snow-capped, can be clearly seen on the horizon on clear days and reaches a height of 6,071 meters. The surface of the salt flat — white, flat, dazzling — contrasts with the red-orange color of the algae that color the shores where flamingos feed. It is one of those landscapes that do not require photographic filters: the high-altitude light is already unreal in itself.
The salt of the Salar de Surire has been commercially extracted for decades, and even today traces of this activity can be observed along some stretches of the shore. The nature reserve protects both the landscape and the fauna, particularly the three species of Andean flamingos present: in addition to the aforementioned Phoenicoparrus andinus, there are the Chilean flamingo (Phoenicopterus chilensis) and the James's flamingo (Phoenicoparrus jamesi), the latter being one of the rarest in the world.
How to get there and practical information
Reaching Polloquere requires planning. The most common route starts from Putre, the main inhabited center of the area, located at about 3,500 meters above sea level. From Putre, a dirt road leads through the Lauca National Park and then descends towards the Salar de Surire: the journey takes approximately 3-4 hours by off-road vehicle, with challenging sections that require a four-wheel drive vehicle, especially during the summer rainy season (from December to March).
There is no public transport to the hot springs. The most common solution is to rent an off-road vehicle with a driver from Putre or from Arica, the nearest coastal city located about 150 kilometers away. Entrance to the Natural Monument Salar de Surire requires payment of a fee to CONAF, which can be verified directly on the agency's website or at the checkpoints. The best time to visit is between April and November, when the dirt roads are more passable and the chances of clear skies are higher.
What to bring and how to prepare
The total absence of facilities makes preparation essential. It is crucial to bring plenty of drinking water, food, a swimsuit, a towel, and — equally important — warm clothes for after the bath. The air temperature at this altitude can drop quickly, even in the middle of the southern summer, and coming out of the warm water into a cold wind without a dry change of clothes is a real risk.
Those with heart or blood pressure issues should consult a doctor before planning this visit. For everyone else, Polloquere offers something that is hard to replicate: the silence of the high plateau, the steam rising in the clear air, and in the background, the flamingos walking slowly on the edge of the white salt, as if time here did not have the same urgency it has elsewhere.
