The floor of the Silver Pagoda is made up of over 5,000 tiles of solid silver, each weighing about one kilogram. Walking on this surface — provided it is allowed to do so with appropriate footwear, which actually must be removed at the entrance — literally means stepping on one of the most extraordinary artistic heritages of Southeast Asia. This detail alone is worth the trip to the heart of Phnom Penh.
The Royal Palace of the Cambodian capital is the official residence of Norodom Sihamoni, king of the country since 2004. The complex was built starting in 1866, during the reign of Norodom I, on a site chosen for its strategic location along the confluence of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap. The architecture combines elements of Khmer tradition with French influences, reflecting the period of colonial protectorate that profoundly marked the history of the country.
The structure of the complex and Khmer architecture
The palace extends over an area of about 174,000 square meters, enclosed by ochre-colored walls that delineate a set of buildings constructed in different periods between the late nineteenth and the twentieth century. The Main Throne, known as Preah Thineang Dheva Vinnichay, is the ceremonial heart of the complex: its central tower reaches about 59 meters in height and is topped by a golden spire that recalls the shape of the Prasat tower typical of Khmer temple architecture. The green and yellow tiles of the roof, arranged in several descending levels, are visible from afar and represent one of the most recognizable visual elements of the city.
The Throne Hall building was reconstructed in 1919 to replace a previous wooden structure. Visitors can observe from the outside the decorative friezes that adorn the walls, featuring mythological figures drawn from the Hindu epic of the Ramayana, here in the Khmer version called Reamker. Some pavilions of the complex were built in France and then disassembled and reassembled in Cambodia, such as the Napoleon III Pavilion, donated by Empress Eugenie in the nineteenth century.
The Silver Pagoda: the spiritual heart of the palace
The Silver Pagoda, officially called Wat Preah Keo Morakot, houses the famous Cambodian Emerald Buddha, a 17th-century crystal statue covered in gold. Next to it is a second statue of extraordinary importance: a solid gold Buddha weighing about 90 kilograms, encrusted with over 2,000 diamonds, the largest of which weighs about 25 carats. This statue was commissioned by King Sisowath in the early 1900s and represents one of the most precious religious art objects in the entire region.
Along the inner walls of the enclosure surrounding the pagoda runs a fresco approximately 642 meters long that illustrates scenes from the Reamker. Created in the early 20th century and restored several times over the decades, this pictorial cycle is one of the most complete examples of traditional Khmer narrative painting still in existence. The colors, vibrant despite the damage suffered during the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975 to 1979, depict battles, deities, and court scenes with a richness of detail that requires time to be appreciated.
The signs of recent history and preservation
The palace was closed to the public during the regime of Pol Pot and the Khmer Rouge, who emptied Phnom Penh between 1975 and 1979. Many art objects were damaged or lost, but the complex was not destroyed as happened to other religious sites in the country. After the fall of the regime, restoration work gradually resumed with the support of international organizations and the complex was reopened to the public.
Today, some sections of the palace remain closed to visitors because they are still in use as an active royal residence. This means that the visiting experience is partial compared to the entire extent of the complex, but the accessible areas — including the Silver Pagoda and the surrounding gardens — are rich enough to require at least two hours of careful visiting.
Practical Information for the Visit
The palace is generally open to the public in the morning and early afternoon, with a closure during the central hours of the day: it is advisable to check the updated hours before going there, as they may vary on the occasion of State ceremonies. The entrance ticket is around 10 US dollars for foreign visitors. It is mandatory to cover shoulders and knees: those who present themselves in inappropriate clothing will not be admitted, and sarongs or head coverings are not always available for loan at the entrance.
The palace is located along the riverside of Phnom Penh, easily reachable on foot from the city center or with a short tuk-tuk ride. The best time to visit is early in the morning, when natural light illuminates the golden tiles and the gardens are still fresh. Avoid Cambodian national holidays, when the palace may be closed for official events or significantly crowded.
