On the Sarthe river in the Mancelles Alps, the village of Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei was founded by Saint Céneri, an Italian monk who built a monastery here in the seventh century. It was later burned by the Normans, but the 11th-century church on the site remains, its saddleback roof and tower emerging from the trees. Inside, 12th-century murals have recently been restored.
Pretty houses around the church and along the river have been preserved, as has a lovely 15th-century chapel. The village has charmed many famous painters, including Camille Corot and Eugène Boudin, and charcoal portraits of artists and villagers, sketched by candlelight, are on display at the Auberge des Soeurs Moisy (now a museum), which they frequented. River canoeing and visits to the gardens at La Mansonière are recommended.
