The vines of Santorini do not grow like those seen elsewhere in Europe. Here, on the volcanic island of the Cyclades, winemakers have been adopting a technique called kouloura for centuries: the vines are woven into a low basket shape, almost lying on the ground, to protect themselves from the strong Meltemi winds and to collect nighttime moisture. This training system, which has remained virtually unchanged for over three thousand years, is now recognized as an agricultural heritage of historical significance and forms the heart of the Santorini Wine Trails that start from the area of Oia.
The soil on which these vines rest is composed mainly of pumice, volcanic ash, and lava, remnants of the eruptions that shaped the island over the millennia. This porous soil, almost devoid of clay, has an extraordinary property: it is naturally resistant to phylloxera, the pest that destroyed most of the European vineyards at the end of the nineteenth century. For this reason, many of the vines of Santorini are pre-phylloxeric, with an estimated age between 70 and 200 years, some even older.
The Assyrtiko: the grape variety that tastes of sea and minerals
The absolute protagonist of any tasting on the island is the Assyrtiko, an indigenous white grape variety that directly expresses the characteristics of the territory. The wine that results from it has a naturally high acidity, an alcohol content often exceeding 13%, and an aromatic profile that recalls lemon, flint, white flowers, and, in some cases, saltiness. It is not a neutral wine: those who expect something soft and fruity like a Pinot Grigio will be surprised by its verticality and persistent savoriness.
Among the most internationally recognized labels is the winery Domaine Sigalas, founded by Paris Sigalas, a mathematician who decided to dedicate himself to viticulture in the 1980s. His production has significantly contributed to bringing Assyrtiko to the attention of international markets. Another reference winery is Estate Argyros, active since 1903, which also produces Vinsanto, the dessert wine of Santorini made from Assyrtiko, Aidani, and Athiri grapes left to dry in the sun for at least two weeks before vinification.
The wineries carved into volcanic rock
One of the most tangible experiences that the Santorini Wine Trails offer is the visit to the underground wineries, carved directly into the volcanic rock. These structures, called canava in Greek, maintain a naturally constant temperature throughout the year, around 15-18 degrees, ideal for the preservation and fermentation of wine. Upon entering one of these wineries, the visitor immediately perceives the change in temperature and the characteristic scent of damp stone and wood.
Some of these wineries are located in the area of Megalochori and Pyrgos, but there are also visitable structures in the Oia area. During organized tours, there is the opportunity to observe the terracotta amphorae still in use in some traditional productions, alongside more modern stainless steel barrels. The contrast between ancient and contemporary is physically visible, not just told.
The tasting with a view of the caldera
Many wineries and wine bars in Oia organize tasting sessions with a direct view of the caldera, the large volcanic depression that forms the characteristic semicircle of the island. Sitting on terraces overlooking the sea, at an altitude of about 250 meters, three or four wines are typically tasted in sequence: it usually starts with a young dry Assyrtiko, moves on to more structured or barrel-aged versions, and ends with Vinsanto, sweet and amber, with notes of dried fig, apricot, and caramel.
The average price for a guided tasting in a winery ranges between 20 and 45 euros per person, depending on the number of wines included and the presence of food pairings with local products such as Santorini fava (a puree of native legumes with protected designation) or the Santorini cherry tomato, small and concentrated due to the scarcity of water.
Practical tips for visiting the Wine Trails
The best time to follow the wine routes is in the morning or late afternoon, avoiding the central hours of the day in summer when temperatures exceed 30 degrees and walking paths through the vineyards become tiring. The recommended season is from May to October, with September being particularly interesting because it coincides with the grape harvest: during that period, some wineries offer the opportunity to actively participate in the grape picking.
To reach the vineyards from Oia, the most practical solution is to rent a car or a scooter, as public transport on the island mainly connects the inhabited centers and not the rural areas. Booking tastings in advance, especially in July and August, is strongly recommended: the most well-known wineries sell out available spots weeks in advance. Finally, those who drive should keep in mind that the internal roads of the island are narrow and winding: it is better to avoid booking abundant tastings if you are driving.
