When the eastern plane trees — the majestic chinar — ignite their leaves in red and orange in October, the Shalimar Gardens of Srinagar transform into a spectacle that alone justifies the journey to Kashmir. These century-old trees, planted along the main avenues of the garden, cast enormous shadows on the terraced lawns, and the sound of water flowing through the stone channels accompanies every step.
The Shalimar Gardens are located on the northern shore of the Dal Lake, about five kilometers from the center of Srinagar. They were built in 1619 by the Mughal emperor Jahangir as a gift for his wife Nur Jahan, and the name itself — Shalimar — means in Sanskrit "abode of love." The complex was later expanded by Jahangir's son, the emperor Shah Jahan, the same one who would later commission the Taj Mahal.
The terraced structure: how the garden is organized
The garden develops over four terraces that gradually rise from the lake shore to the hillside behind. Each terrace has a distinct function and character: the first, the lowest, was reserved for the public; the second was intended for the emperor; the third was the private garden of the emperor and his court; the fourth, the highest, was reserved for the women of the imperial harem. This hierarchical separation of spaces is still legible today by walking from one platform to another.
At the center of each terrace flows the main channel, about one and a half meters wide, which carries water from the mountain spring to the lake. Along this axis are the fountains, some of which are still functioning, and the pavilions made of local black stone — the basalt of Kashmir — which served as audience halls or places of rest. The central pavilion of the fourth terrace, with its finely carved columns, is one of the best-preserved architectural elements of the entire complex.
The Chinar and the Cycle of the Seasons
The chinar (Platanus orientalis) is the most iconic plant element of the Mughal gardens of Kashmir. In the Shalimar, there are specimens that have surpassed three hundred years of life, with trunks so wide that two people would not be able to embrace them. In spring, the garden fills with purple irises and tulips — varieties that the Mughals had imported from Central Asia — while in summer, the lawns remain surprisingly cool thanks to continuous irrigation.
Autumn, however, is the season that transforms Shalimar into something difficult to describe without seeming exaggerated. Between mid-October and mid-November, the leaves of the chinar shift from green to intense yellow, then to orange, and finally to an almost scarlet red. The afternoon light filters through the branches and illuminates the central canal, creating reflections that change from hour to hour. It is no coincidence that many professional photographers choose this period to visit Kashmir.
How to get there and practical information
The Shalimar Gardens are easily reached from Srinagar by car or tuk-tuk: the route from the city center follows the shore of Dal Lake along the Boulevard Road and takes about twenty minutes in normal traffic conditions. Alternatively, you can arrive by shikara — the traditional rowing boats of Kashmir — directly from the lake, an experience that adds a level of suggestion to the already remarkable visual impact of the garden seen from the water.
The entrance ticket for foreign visitors is about 24 Indian rupees for adults, a symbolic amount. The garden is open every day and a complete visit, leisurely walking through all four terraces, takes between 60 and 90 minutes. The most useful practical advice is to arrive in the early morning hours, before ten: the light is better for photographs, the temperature is cooler, and organized groups have not yet invaded the paths. In the late afternoon, in summer, the garden fills with local families using it as an urban park, which has its own authentic charm but makes contemplative visiting more difficult.
The context: Shalimar in the landscape of Kashmir
The Shalimar Gardens are part of a system of Mughal gardens that also includes the nearby Nishat Gardens, built in 1633 by Jahangir's brother-in-law, and the Chashma Shahi Gardens. Together, these three complexes form a coherent itinerary along the eastern shore of Dal Lake, which can be explored in a full day. Shalimar is the oldest of the three and, for many visitors, the most balanced in the relationship between architecture and nature.
Visiting Shalimar also means engaging with the complex history of Kashmir: the garden has endured centuries of Mughal, Sikh, and then British rule, and is now managed by the Archaeological Survey of India. Despite the political events that have marked the region, the garden has remained open to visitors and continues to be carefully maintained. Strolling along the central canal, with water flowing between ancient stones and the chinar trees reflecting in the water's surface, is an experience that leaves a lasting impression with unusual clarity.
