At dawn, the surface of Lake Kariba reflects a still purple sky while the canoe glides silently among the skeletal trunks of submerged baobabs. These trees, dead but still standing in the water, are witnesses to the great flood that followed the construction of the Kariba Dam, completed in 1959 on the Zambezi River. What today appears as an almost surreal landscape — ghost forests emerging from the still water — is actually one of the most extraordinary ecological results of one of the largest artificial dams in the world, which created a reservoir of over 5,000 square kilometers.
Spurwing Island Lodge is located on a small island accessible only by boat, a short distance from the Zimbabwean shore of the lake. Its isolated location is not a tourist gimmick but a real geographical condition: the island is surrounded by shallow waters that elephants cross on foot, creating splashes visible to the naked eye from the lodge's bungalows. There is no road leading here. There is no parking. There is only water, and what lives in and around it.
An ecosystem built on water
Lake Kariba, although artificial, has developed over the decades a remarkably complex lacustrine ecosystem. The waters host the kapenta, a small sardine-like fish introduced in the 1960s that has become the foundation of the local food chain and a vital economic resource for the communities in the region. Around this fish abundance, a predatory network has formed that includes Nile crocodiles, otters, herons, and especially the African fish eagle — called fish eagle — whose sharp and unmistakable cry continuously resonates over the island.
Watching a fish eagle flying low over the water, with its talons grabbing a fish in a split second, is one of the most frequent experiences for those staying at Spurwing. It is not a rare event reserved for the lucky: these birds of prey are present in such numbers that spotting multiple individuals in a single morning is the norm, not the exception. The density of avian wildlife in the area is one of the features that makes Lake Kariba interesting for birdwatchers.
Canoeing among the submerged baobabs
The most distinctive activity offered by the lodge is the Canadian canoe excursion at dawn among the forests of submerged trees. These trunks, standing in the water for over sixty years, create a natural labyrinth that the local guides know precisely. Navigating among them in the early hours of the morning, when the low fog has not yet dissipated and the sounds of the savanna blend with the gurgling of the water, offers a sense of isolation that is hard to find in other African natural contexts.
The uniqueness of this experience is also numerical: the number of visitors present on the island at any given time is extremely low, as the lodge has a limited number of accommodations. This scarcity of tourists is perhaps the most precious detail of Spurwing: there are no queues, there are no other boats disturbing the wildlife, there are no voices drowning out the sounds of nature. Those who arrive here find themselves in a context where wildlife — including elephants — moves with the same indifference it would have in the absence of humans.
The terrestrial fauna of the island
Despite the small size of the island, the terrestrial fauna is surprisingly present. Elephants regularly cross the shallow waters surrounding Spurwing, and it is not uncommon to see them emerge from the vegetation along the shore or wade towards the island itself. Hippos and crocodiles are present in the surrounding waters, making some caution necessary during the night hours. The lodge staff always accompanies guests during evening movements.
The vegetation of the island is dominated by acacia and mopane trees, typical of the arid ecosystems of southern Zimbabwe, which provide shelter to numerous bird species. Among these, the giant kingfisher, the African cormorant, and several species of herons are regularly noted. For those carrying binoculars, the early morning and late afternoon hours are the most productive for observation.
Practical Information for the Visit
To reach Spurwing Island Lodge, it is necessary to first arrive in the city of Kariba, Zimbabwe, which can be accessed by plane from Harare with domestic flights operated by local airlines, or by road. From the port of Kariba, the boat transfer to the lodge takes about twenty minutes. The best time to visit Lake Kariba is from May to October, during the dry season: temperatures are milder, sparse vegetation makes wildlife spotting easier, and water levels allow for canoe excursions in flooded areas.
It is advisable to book well in advance, especially for the months of July and August, which represent the peak of the season. Bringing effective insect repellent is essential: mosquitoes are present, along with the risk of malaria, so it is necessary to consult a doctor before departure regarding the appropriate prophylaxis. One last practical tip: do not forget a reliable flashlight — on the island, at night, the darkness is total and the sounds of animals in the water are very close.
