The hexagonal basalt columns reflecting in the turquoise waters of the Jökulsá á Brú river are the first detail that strikes those who reach the Stuðlagil Canyon, in the eastern region of Iceland near Egilsstaðir. This is not an artificial formation nor a site prepared for mass tourism: the canyon remained virtually unknown until 2018, when the water level in the river significantly dropped due to the partial diversion of the watercourse towards the Kárahnjúkar hydroelectric power station, inaugurated in 2009. Before that reduction in flow, the columns were almost entirely submerged and invisible.
Today the site is mainly accessible from the Klaustursel farm, in the Jökuldalur valley, about 60 kilometers north of Egilsstaðir. The dirt road leading to the main access is not always passable with ordinary vehicles, especially in the autumn and winter months, and in many stretches requires a 4x4 vehicle with adequate ground clearance. The canyon itself extends for about two kilometers along the river, with walls of basalt columns reaching an estimated height of between 20 and 30 meters at some points.
The light and colors at different times of the day
The chromatic peculiarity of the Stuðlagil Canyon directly depends on the angle of sunlight. In the early hours of the morning, when the sun is low on the eastern horizon, the gray-anthracite basalt columns take on golden and orange reflections, while the river maintains that turquoise-glacial hue derived from the presence of very fine mineral sediments transported by the glaciers upstream. It is the combination of the dark gray of the volcanic rock and the blue-green of the water that makes the landscape so photographically recognizable.
In the summer afternoon, when Iceland enjoys extended hours of light until late evening, the slanting light of the setting sun in the west casts long shadows between the columns, accentuating the almost artificial geometry of the basalt structures. In summer, around 10-11 PM, the light becomes warm and diffused, eliminating harsh contrasts and giving the entire gorge an amber hue. Those who visit the canyon during the summer solstice can observe this effect for several consecutive hours, as the sun does not dip below the horizon.
The geological formation: columnar basalt
The columns of Stuðlagil are the result of a slow and uniform cooling process of basaltic lava. When the lava cools in a controlled manner, the contraction of the material generates regular fractures that produce polygonal structures, predominantly hexagonal. This geological phenomenon, known as columnar basalt, can be observed in various places around the world, but the concentration and density of the columns in Stuðlagil is considered among the highest in all of Iceland. The columns are arranged both vertically along the walls of the canyon and in horizontal and inclined formations, creating a visually striking effect of great structural complexity.
Unlike similar sites such as Fingal's Cave in Scotland or the Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland, Stuðlagil Canyon is not accessible with established tourist infrastructure: there are no walkways, railings, or informational panels along the route. This makes the experience more authentic but also more physically demanding, as part of the journey requires walking on uneven terrain along the banks of the river.
How to organize the visit
The most common starting point is the parking area near the Klaustursel farm, from which a trail of about 3-4 kilometers round trip leads to the main viewpoint on the edge of the canyon. The elevation gain is not high, but the ground can be slippery in the presence of rain or morning dew. The best time to visit is between June and September, when the dirt road is generally passable and the weather conditions are more stable.
It is strongly recommended to check the road conditions on the official Vegagerðin app or on the website road.is before departing from Egilsstaðir. In case of recent rains, some sections of the F923 can become impassable even for off-road vehicles. Bringing enough water is essential, as there are no service facilities along the route. The average time for the complete visit, including the walk and the scenic stop, is about two to three hours.
What to Observe on Site
Arriving at the edge of the canyon, the first visible detail is the sharp contrast between the mossy green vegetation growing on the tops of the walls and the dark gray basalt below. Looking down, the river appears a deep turquoise color, almost unreal, which varies slightly depending on the season and the water flow. In some places, it is possible to descend to the riverbank, where the basalt columns emerge directly from the water and one can appreciate up close the geometry of the hexagonal sections.
The presence of mosses and lichens on the rocks adds further color nuances, with tones ranging from yellow-green to dark brown. In summer, some species of birds nest on the vertical walls of the canyon, making the site interesting even for those who practice birdwatching. The combination of silence, natural geometry, and unexpected colors makes Stuðlagil one of the most unusual landscapes in eastern Iceland.
