The water still flows, warm and slightly effervescent, through cracked marble pools adorned with mosaics depicting happy athletes and workers. At the Legends Tskaltubo Spa Resort, in the spa town of Tskaltubo in western Georgia, time seems to have stopped in the mid-twentieth century, when Stalin himself frequented these establishments as a privileged guest. Today, some of the bathhouses have been partially restored and reopened to the public, while others remain in a fascinating state of controlled abandonment, with crumbling gold stucco on the ceilings and arched windows framing overgrown gardens.
Tskaltubo owes its fame to the natural mineral waters that spring from the underground at a constant temperature of about 33-35 degrees Celsius, without the need for artificial heating. These waters contain radon and carbon dioxide in therapeutic concentrations, a characteristic that made them famous throughout the Soviet Union starting in the 1930s. At the height of its popularity, in the 1970s and 1980s, the town hosted over six million visitors a year, coming from every corner of the Soviet bloc.
The history of the thermal resorts
The construction of the large thermal pavilions in Tskaltubo mainly took place between 1926 and 1950, following the principles of Soviet neoclassical architecture. The buildings, numbered progressively, feature imposing facades with columns, decorated pediments, and interiors clad in local marble. Pavilion number 6, now partially restored and integrated into the Legends Resort complex, is one of the best-preserved examples of this aesthetic, with its circular halls and private bath cabins still recognizable in their original structure.
After the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, Tskaltubo fell into a rapid decline. The resorts were abandoned and many buildings were occupied by internally displaced Georgian refugees fleeing the conflict in Abkhazia. Only in the 2000s and 2010s did the Georgian government and some private investors begin a slow recovery process, which led to the partial reopening of some pavilions, including the one currently managed by the Legends Resort.
The therapeutic experience in radon baths
Taking a bath in the waters of Tskaltubo is a physically distinct experience from any other European spa. The water, which flows naturally at body temperature, does not burn or stimulate: it envelops the body in a sensation of gentle weight and progressive muscle relaxation. The bubbles of carbon dioxide settle on the skin like a sparkling film. Local doctors traditionally prescribed cycles of 10-12 baths lasting 8-12 minutes each to treat cardiovascular diseases, arthritis, and nervous system disorders.
Within the Legends Resort, it is possible to book balneotherapy sessions in the restored baths, where qualified staff supervise the immersion times. The private cabins in white marble maintain the original look of the 1940s, with vintage fixtures and white and green tiled walls. The contrast between the decadent luxury of the interiors and the essential simplicity of the treatment creates an atmosphere that is hard to find elsewhere.
The natural and architectural context
Tskaltubo is located in the Imereti region, about 10 kilometers from Kutaisi, the second city of Georgia. The surrounding landscape is that of the subtropical hills of western Georgia, with lush vegetation, tall trees, and a humidity that makes the air dense and fragrant. The city's central park, which connects the various spa pavilions along tree-lined avenues, is still walkable and allows for a close-up view of the abandoned buildings with their peeling facades and the brambles growing through the boarded-up windows.
Walking among the unrestored pavilions, visible from the outside along the public avenues, offers a unique perspective on the monumental Soviet architecture in a state of abandonment. The decorative mosaics that adorn some external facades are still legible, with stylized figures celebrating labor, sports, and collective health.
Practical tips for the visit
The easiest way to reach Tskaltubo is to start from Kutaisi, which is connected by direct flights to many European cities via the David the Builder International Airport. From Kutaisi, Tskaltubo can be reached in 20-30 minutes by taxi or marshrutka, the shared minibuses typical of Georgia, with very low fares. It is advisable to book thermal sessions at Legends Resort in advance, especially during the summer months, as the capacity of the restored pools is limited.
The best time to visit is spring (April-May) or early autumn (September-October), when the outside temperatures are pleasant for walking in the park and the resort is less crowded compared to the high summer season. Those wishing to explore the abandoned pavilions should know that unauthorized access to closed buildings is prohibited: it is preferable to limit oneself to public areas and organized tours offered by the resort itself, which also include some historical sections that are otherwise inaccessible.
