The road that climbs towards the Tusheti National Park, in the northeast of Georgia, is considered one of the most dangerous in the Caucasus. The Abano Pass, which reaches an altitude of 2,926 meters, is a ribbon of dirt without guardrails that climbs up vertical slopes, with hairpin turns overlooking cliffs hundreds of meters deep. For many visitors, this jeep ride — the only way to enter the region during the summer — is already a nerve-wracking experience in itself. But when descending into the valley and seeing the first medieval stone towers emerge among the green pastures, one understands why every curve is worth it.
Tusheti National Park covers about 83,700 hectares along the border with Russia, in the Kakheti region. Formally established in 2003, the park encompasses one of the best-preserved mountain ecosystems in the entire Caucasus range. The region is inhabited only seasonally: in winter, the Tushe families descend to the plains with their flocks, leaving the villages completely deserted under the snow. Only between June and September does life return to populate these stone settlements, some of which — like Omalo, Dartlo, and Shenako — maintain architectural structures dating back to the Middle Ages.
A vertical ecosystem: from the forest to the alpine pasture
The biodiversity of Tusheti can be read almost in altitudinal bands. Climbing from the wooded valleys, dominated by beech and Caucasian firs, one crosses areas of shrubs and rhododendrons until reaching the high-altitude pastures where the vegetation becomes sparse and the rock takes over. This stratification creates distinct habitats for different species, some of which are rare or endemic. The Caucasian chamois (Rupicapra rupicapra caucasica) can be spotted on rocky ridges, often in small groups that move with surprising agility on slopes that seem impractical.
In the more remote areas, far from the main trails, stable populations of gray wolves (Canis lupus) are present. Local shepherds are well aware of their presence: the Tushe shepherd dogs, a native breed of impressive size with necks protected by spiked collars, are still used to defend the flocks from nighttime attacks. Seeing these dogs at work, or simply encountering one of them along a trail, is one of the most memorable details of Tusheti.
The high-altitude flora and flowering meadows
Between July and August, the pastures of Tusheti transform into expanses of wildflowers. Blue gentians, yellow buttercups, and various species of mountain orchids grow spontaneously along the paths that connect the villages. The Caucasus is one of the regions with the highest rate of floral endemism in Europe: it is estimated that about 25% of the plant species present in the Caucasian region are endemic, and Tusheti hosts a significant part of them.
Particularly visible are the expanses of Rhododendron caucasicum, a shrub species that blooms in white between June and July on the slopes above 2,000 meters. The rhododendrons form dense and almost impenetrable patches that, when in bloom, create a sharp visual contrast with the green of the underlying pastures. Walking through these flowering shrubs, with the towers of Dartlo visible in the distance, is one of the most characteristic images of the park.
The Birds of the Caucasus: A Paradise for Birdwatchers
Tusheti is one of the best places in the Caucasus for observing cliff-dwelling birds. The bearded vulture (Gypaetus barbatus), with a wingspan that can exceed 2.7 meters, can be regularly spotted along the rocky ridges. This vulture, one of the largest in Europe, is easily recognized by its elongated silhouette and the reddish plumage on the chests of adult specimens. Less common but present is the golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), which nests in the most inaccessible rocky walls.
Among the pastures, it is common to encounter the chukar (Alectoris chukar), a pheasant-like bird that moves in small groups making its characteristic hoarse call. For those carrying binoculars, early mornings — when the light is low and the animals are still active — offer the best opportunities for spotting both birds and mammals.
Practical Information for Visiting Tusheti
The park is accessible only between June and October, when the Abano Pass is open. Outside of this period, the road is closed due to snow. To reach Omalo, the main village, you start from the city of Telavi in the Kakheti region: the jeep ride takes between 4 and 6 hours depending on the road conditions. It is highly recommended to rent a vehicle with all-wheel drive or rely on an experienced local driver — this route is not suitable for ordinary vehicles nor for those without experience on unpaved mountain roads.
Within the park, there are no traditional hotel facilities, but numerous families from the villages offer hospitality in simple guesthouses, with meals included based on local products such as Tushetian cheese (a typical aged variety from the area). Bringing cash is essential: there are no ATMs accessible once you enter the park. The best time for wildlife and flora is July and August, when the pastures are in full bloom and the weather conditions are more stable.
