Underfoot, the ground sways slightly. It is not a feeling of danger, but of something alive: the Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca are entirely built with layers of compressed totora, the bulrush that grows spontaneously in the waters of the lake. Walking on these floating islands is like moving on a giant, elastic, and damp mattress that shifts with the underlying water.
Lake Titicaca is located at about 3,810 meters above sea level, on the border between Peru and Bolivia, and is considered the highest navigable lake in the world. The Uros islands are a few kilometers from the city of Puno, reachable by boat in about 30-40 minutes from the main port. The Uros people have lived on these floating structures for centuries, in a form of geographical and cultural isolation that has allowed the survival of unique building traditions.
How the islands are built
Each island is made up of overlapping layers of dried totora roots, called killi, which serve as a floating base. On top of this platform, new layers of fresh reeds are continuously added, as the lower part decomposes slowly in the water. The inhabitants must therefore add new material every few weeks to maintain the structure. The larger islands can host several families and measure tens of meters in diameter.
The houses, furniture, dragon-shaped boats used for tourism, and even some lookout towers are built with the same reed. Totora is not only used as a building material: it is also consumed as food, in its soft, white inner part, with a slightly sweet and watery taste. The children of the islands eat it as a snack, and visitors can taste it during guided tours.
The Daily Life of the Uros
The Uros communities that still live permanently on the islands are numerically reduced compared to the past. Many community members have moved to Puno or other cities, but some families maintain permanent residence on the islands, practicing fishing, hunting waterfowl, and textile craftsmanship. Women produce colorful fabrics and miniature objects in the shape of islands or boats, sold to tourists as souvenirs.
Electricity has arrived on some islands thanks to solar panels installed in recent decades, and some families have televisions and cell phones. This contrast between ancient construction tradition and contemporary technology is one of the most interesting aspects to observe during the visit: a satellite dish placed on a totora roof tells a lot about the ongoing transformation.
Sleeping on the island
Some families offer the possibility of staying overnight on the island in very simple accommodations, sleeping on mattresses in reed huts. The experience is authentic but spartan: there are no bathrooms with traditional flushing, the nighttime cold at high altitude can be intense even in summer, and the available light is limited. Those who choose this option must be prepared for minimal comfort and to interact directly with the host family members, often through a guide who acts as a translator.
The cost of the overnight stay varies based on the agreement with the family and the agency involved, but it generally involves accessible amounts. The most valuable aspect is not the comfort, but the opportunity to see the sunrise over Titicaca from the island, with the mist rising from the water and the almost total silence that precedes the awakening of the community.
Practical tips for the visit
The port of Puno from which boats depart for the Uros islands is located in the city center. The first boats leave around 6:30-7:00 in the morning, and visiting the islands in the early hours is recommended to avoid the crowds of organized tours that arrive en masse between 9:00 and 11:00. Entry to the islands requires the payment of a fee that goes directly to the local communities, generally included in the cost of boat transportation.
Bringing layered clothing is essential: the altitude makes the air cold even when the sun is strong, and the wind on the lake can significantly lower the perceived temperature. High SPF sunscreen is indispensable because at almost 4,000 meters, UV radiation is much more intense than at sea level. Finally, it is preferable to bring your own water and some snacks, as food options on the islands are limited and prices tend to be higher than on the mainland.
