The vines are not planted in rows. They are twisted around themselves in the shape of a basket, resting directly on the gray volcanic pumice, without poles, without supports. This training technique called kouloura is visible as soon as you arrive at the Venetsanos Winery, overlooking the caldera of Santorini: a detail that immediately tells why the wine produced here is unlike any other white in the Mediterranean.
The winery was founded in 1947 by Antonis Venetsanos, one of the first producers to believe in the commercial potential of Santorini's Assyrtiko at a time when the island primarily exported bulk wine. The original structure is partially carved into the volcanic rock of the caldera, overlooking Athinios, the island's main port. From the panoramic terrace, you can see the ferries entering and leaving the port, hundreds of meters below.
The volcanic terroir: why the soil changes everything
The soil of Santorini is mainly composed of pumice, lava, and volcanic ash, materials almost devoid of clay and with a capacity to retain nighttime moisture through condensation. This natural mechanism allows the vines to survive in an extreme summer climate, with very little rainfall between May and September. The roots of the oldest vines go down several meters deep, seeking moisture and minerals in ancient geological layers.
The result in the glass is recognizable: the Assyrtiko of Santorini has a naturally high acidity, a saline minerality that almost recalls iodine and the sea, and a structure that holds up well to aging. Unlike many Greek whites, it is not a wine to be drunk young at all costs — some bottles of pure Assyrtiko improve after three or five years in the bottle.
The tasting: what to expect in the winery
Venetsanos offers several tasting paths, with prices ranging approximately between 15 and 35 euros per person depending on the number of labels included. The tastings mainly take place on the outdoor terrace, with a direct view of the caldera and the islands of Nea Kameni and Palea Kameni at the center of the submerged crater. It is one of the few places in Santorini where you can taste wine seated with this perspective, away from the crowds of the bars in Oia.
The labels to look for in the tasting include the pure Assyrtiko, which best expresses the volcanic minerality, and the blend with Athiri and Aidani, indigenous grapes that slightly soften the aromatic profile. The winery also produces a Vinsanto, the traditional passito wine of the island made from sun-dried grapes on mats, with notes of dried fig, honey, and candied orange peel. The Vinsanto of Santorini has a protected designation of origin and a documented history of several centuries.
The historical structure and architecture
The main building of the winery is one of the rare examples of early 20th-century industrial architecture that have survived on the island. The original concrete fermentation tanks are still visible inside, even though modern production uses updated equipment. The contrast between the dark volcanic stone walls and the stainless steel tanks is physically noticeable during the visit to the underground cellars, where the temperature remains naturally cool even in summer.
The location at Athinios, different from the usual tourist paths concentrated in Fira and Oia, means that the winery is never as crowded as the more advertised wineries in the northern part of the island. This makes it a better choice for those who want a tasting with a minimum of tranquility during the high season months.
Practical tips for the visit
The best time to visit is in the late afternoon, typically from 5:00 PM onwards, when the light on the caldera becomes warmer and the terrace is less exposed to direct sunlight. In summer, the midday terrace can be very hot. The winery is reachable by car or scooter from the main road that descends towards the port of Athinios — about 8 kilometers from Fira. It is not easily accessible on foot from the main centers of the island.
It is advisable to book the tasting in advance during July and August, especially if traveling in a group. The winery shop allows for direct purchase of bottles, often at slightly lower prices compared to retailers in Fira. Those intending to bring wine to Italy should remember that Vinsanto bottles are often 500 ml, a typical size for dessert wines meant for meditation.
