Seventy meters below the Apulian countryside, time stands still. The air becomes cool and humid, the sounds of the outside world fade away, and before your eyes opens a world of stalactites, stalagmites, and gigantic salt formations that sunlight has never reached. The Castellana Caves, officially discovered in 1938 by geologist Franco Anelli, are one of the most extensive and well-preserved karst systems in Italy, with an underground path that extends for about three kilometers of galleries and caves.
The complex is located in the municipality of Castellana Grotte, in the province of Bari, in the heart of the Apulian Murgia. The formation of these cavities dates back millions of years, when underground waters slowly carved the limestone rock, creating environments of extraordinary complexity. Today, every year, tens of thousands of visitors descend underground to admire a natural spectacle that has no equal in the Mediterranean.
The Grave and the first halls: the impact with the underground
The entrance to the system is already a visual shock in itself. It is called The Grave, and it is an open-air sinkhole about 65 meters wide and almost 60 meters deep: a natural abyss that swallows light and visitors alike. It is here that Franco Anelli, on January 23, 1938, was the first to descend with a rope, becoming the first modern explorer of this hidden world. The date is etched in the memory of the place, and the guides proudly recall it during every tour.
From the walls of the Grave hang tree roots that reach down in search of moisture, creating an almost surreal effect, as if the overlying vegetation were trying to follow the visitors into the darkness. Proceeding along the path, one passes through halls with evocative names: the Bat Hall, the Monument Hall, the Desert Corridor. Each environment has its own personality, shaped by centuries of mineral deposits and artificial light plays designed to enhance the natural shapes of the rock.
The White Cave: the heart of the system
The pinnacle of the experience is the White Cave, accessible only via a long path of about three kilometers. This chamber is considered one of the most beautiful caves in the world for the purity and density of its formations: stalactites and stalagmites of pure white calcite cover every surface, creating a lunar and almost unreal landscape. The temperature inside remains constant around 15-16 degrees Celsius throughout the year, regardless of the external season.
What strikes most in the White Cave is not only the color but the variety of shapes: eccentric formations, that is, stalactites that grow in seemingly random directions defying gravity, columns that touch both the ceiling and the floor, and very thin crystal needles that look like they are made of blown glass. It is a fragile environment, and for this reason, visitors cannot touch anything: even simple contact with human skin can alter the growth process of the formations, which advance a few millimeters every hundred years.
How to organize the visit
The Castellana Caves offer two types of tours: the short tour of about one kilometer, lasting 50 minutes, which does not include the White Cave, and the long tour of about three kilometers, lasting approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes and culminating in the most famous hall. Ticket prices vary based on the chosen tour and the season: it is always advisable to check the updated rates on the official website before departing, as they may change. The tours are guided and depart at fixed times throughout the day.
The most useful advice for visitors is to bring an extra layer of clothing, even in summer: the constant 15 degrees in the caves can feel surprisingly cold for those coming from the Puglian heat. Closed and non-slip shoes are essential, as some parts of the path are damp. To reach Castellana Grotte by train, the station is connected to the Sud Est Railway line that departs from Bari: the journey takes about 40-50 minutes and the station is located a short distance from the entrance to the caves.
When to go and what to expect
The caves are open all year round, but the summer months see the highest influx of visitors. To avoid queues and large groups, the months of May, September, and October represent the best time for a peaceful visit. In summer, some evening night tours are organized with special lighting that further transforms the experience.
Descending into the Castellana Caves is not simply visiting a cave: it is confronting a timescale that surpasses any immediate understanding. The formations that you admire today have taken millions of years to take shape, and they will continue to grow long after the last visitor has ascended to the light. Be patient, bring a jacket, and let the Apulian underground do the rest.
