The smell arrives before the sight: toasted cumin, dried apricots, warm bread just taken out of the tandoor oven. The Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent announces itself to the senses even before its colors become vivid. At the center of the market stands the large turquoise dome that dominates the historic neighborhood of Eski Shahar — the Old City — visible from afar like a blue beacon among the low rooftops of the city.
Chorsu, which in Uzbek literally means four roads, gets its name from the intersection of ancient caravan routes that met here centuries ago. The market has existed in this area since at least the 15th century, although the modern structure with its characteristic dome dates back to the Soviet era, built in the second half of the twentieth century to rationalize a commercial space that had long been one of the most frequented in Central Asia. Today, the main dome measures about 80 meters in diameter and houses within it the stalls dedicated to spices and dried products.
Under the dome: spices, colors, and voices
Entering the covered section of Chorsu is like immersing oneself in a palette of oranges, reds, and yellows. The vendors — almost always elderly women with colorful scarves — arrange the spices in perfect cones: saffron, paprika, black pepper, coriander, blends of aromatic tea. Each stall is a small set piece proudly curated, and photographing always requires a smile and a nod of permission first.
The bags of dried fruit are equally picturesque: golden raisins from Samarkand, dried figs, Fergana apricots in dozens of varieties, walnuts of every kind. Prices are almost always negotiated verbally, and accepting a sample offered by the seller is part of the social ritual of the market. Refusing it would be considered rude.
Bread is not just bread
In the outer section of the market, along the edges of the large square, there are the ovens where non, the Uzbek flatbread baked on the inner walls of clay tandoor ovens, is produced. The non of Tashkent has a circular shape with a thin center and puffed edges, decorated with geometric patterns impressed by a tool called kechik. Each region of Uzbekistan has its own variant, and the bakers of Chorsu are often proud to explain — even with gestures — the differences.
Seeing a baker pull the bread out with hands protected by thick gloves, stick it to the inner wall of the oven, and then retrieve it golden and fragrant a few minutes later is one of the most concrete and authentic sights that the market offers. A non costs a few thousand Uzbek sums, equivalent to less than one euro, and is among the most honest edible souvenirs that can be taken away.
Ceramics, fabrics, and the upper floor
The Chorsu is not just food. In the multi-level structure, there are stalls dedicated to traditional Uzbek ceramics: plates, bowls, and jugs with characteristic cobalt blue patterns on a white background, produced mainly in the workshops of Rishtan, in the Fergana region. The quality varies greatly from stall to stall, and it is worth observing whether the piece is hand-painted — irregular brush marks are an indicator — or produced industrially.
On the upper floor of the covered structure, there are also fabrics, traditional garments in ikat — the Uzbek fabric with geometric patterns obtained by dyeing the threads before weaving — and everyday objects. This section is less frequented by tourists and more by local residents, which paradoxically makes it more interesting for those who want to observe the ordinary life of the city.
How to visit Chorsu: practical tips
The Chorsu Bazaar is located in the heart of the Old City of Tashkent and is easily accessible by subway: the Chorsu station on the Uzbekistan line is directly connected to the market, just a few steps from the main entrance. The Tashkent subway, inaugurated in 1977, is itself an attraction with its stations decorated in Soviet style.
The best time to visit is early in the morning, between 8 and 10: the stalls are fully stocked, natural light enters obliquely under the dome creating remarkable visual effects, and the crowd is not yet that of noon. On Fridays and Saturdays, the market is particularly lively. Bringing small denomination Uzbek sum notes makes shopping easier; many vendors do not have change for large bills. Allow at least two hours for a visit that also includes the outdoor area and the bread ovens.
