For a few weeks each year, between March and April, the stone terraces of Jabal Al Akhdar turn pink. We are over 2,000 meters above sea level in the Hajar mountain range, in the Al Dakhiliya region, and the Damascus roses — Rosa damascena — bloom in the walled gardens that local communities have cultivated for centuries with techniques that have remained almost unchanged. The cool mountain air, rare in Oman, makes this brief and intense blooming possible, attracting visitors from all over the Gulf and Europe.
The village of Al Ain, one of the historic hamlets perched on the slopes of Jabal Al Akhdar near Al Hamra, is one of the main centers of this tradition. Here, and in the surrounding villages like Ash Shirayjah and Al Ayn, the roses are hand-picked in the early hours of the morning, before the sun robs them of their essential oil. From this harvest comes Omani rose water — ma'a ward — a handcrafted product considered among the finest in the Arabian Peninsula and used in cooking, cosmetics, and traditional ceremonies.
The terraced gardens: centuries of water engineering
What immediately strikes the visitor is not only the color of the flowers but the very structure of the gardens. The terraces are bordered by dry stone walls made of local limestone, built and repaired by hand generation after generation. Irrigation still occurs through the system of aflaj — underground and surface channels that distribute water from the mountain to the fields — a hydraulic infrastructure that UNESCO recognized as a World Heritage Site in 2006. Walking along the paths between one terrace and another, one can clearly see the small stone channels flowing at the edges of the crops.
Alongside the roses, the gardens also host pomegranates, apricots, and walnuts, which bloom in the same spring season. The combination of scents is intense and unexpected for those arriving from the dry heat of the Omani plains. The farmers — often elderly, but there are also young people who have chosen to return to the land — work with simple tools, and it is not uncommon to see women with wicker baskets engaged in the morning harvest.
The distillation of rose water: an ancient process
In the small artisanal distilleries of the village, fresh petals are loaded into copper stills and subjected to steam distillation. The process must take place within a few hours of harvesting to preserve the aromatic compounds. The result is a clear and fragrant liquid that is bottled and sold locally, in the markets of Nizwa and Muscat, and increasingly exported. A 250 ml bottle of rose water from Jabal Al Akhdar can cost between 5 and 15 Omani rials (about 12-40 euros) depending on the quality and the producer.
Some families open their small distilleries to visitors during the blooming season, offering a demonstration of the process. These are not organized attractions with tickets and fixed schedules, but informal meetings that require respect and discretion. Asking your accommodation or a local guide is the best way to find these authentic opportunities.
How to visit Jabal Al Akhdar during the blooming
The most important practical advice is just one: book well in advance. The period of rose blooming — approximately from the second half of March to the first half of April, with annual variations related to temperatures — coincides with one of the peak tourist times on the plateau. Hotels and resorts in Jabal Al Akhdar, such as the Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort built on the edge of a spectacular canyon, sell out weeks in advance. Even bed and breakfasts in traditional villages need to be booked in time.
To reach the area from Muscat, the most common route passes through Nizwa — about 140 kilometers from the capital — and then ascends towards Jabal Al Akhdar via a mountain road that requires a four-wheel drive vehicle (4x4). Military checkpoints at the entrance of the road check the type of vehicle: sedans or city cars are not allowed, regardless of the driver. The journey from Muscat takes about two and a half hours under normal conditions. Early in the morning — between six and nine — is the best time to visit the gardens: the light is soft, the petals are still fresh, and the farmers are at work.
What to take home and what to expect
Rose water is the most obvious souvenir, but local markets during the season also offer mountain honey, dried fruit, and local stone crafts. Those expecting a structured tourist attraction will be surprised: Jabal Al Akhdar during the bloom is primarily a working agricultural site. The paths between the gardens are not always marked, and some private areas are not accessible. Moving with respect, not entering properties without invitation, and not photographing people without consent are unwritten but fundamental rules in this context.
What remains after the visit is difficult to describe accurately: the scent of rose petals mixed with the fresh mountain air, the silence interrupted only by the water flowing in the aflaj, and the tangible feeling of witnessing an agricultural practice that has endured for centuries not for folklore, but out of necessity and identity.
