The roar of the water reaches you even before you see the bridge. The Reuss rushes through the Schöllenen Gorge, wedged between granite walls that seem to close off every escape route, and the Devil's Bridge spans it with a stone arch that, after centuries, has lost none of its boldness. We are in Andermatt, in the Canton of Uri, at about 1,440 meters above sea level, and this corner of Switzerland preserves one of the most dramatic and historically rich alpine passages in the entire continent.
The bridge you see today is actually the result of centuries of successive reconstructions. The first crossing at this point dates back to the 13th century, when opening a transit over the Reuss meant unlocking the route to the Gotthard Pass and thus connecting Northern Europe with Southern Europe. The current stone structure, which visitors can admire and walk on, dates back to 1830, built to replace a previous bridge from 1595 that had become too narrow for the traffic of the time. Next to it, almost as a testament to the different layers of time, the outline of an older arch can still be seen, partially integrated into the rock.
The legend that gave the bridge its name
No place with a similar name is complete without its story of the devil, and that of the Schöllenen is particularly vivid. According to the tradition of the Canton of Uri, the inhabitants of the valley were desperate: the gorge was impassable and no builder seemed capable of constructing a bridge over that raging torrent. The devil offered to build it in one night, in exchange for the first soul that would cross the bridge. The inhabitants accepted, but in the morning they made a goat cross first, outsmarting the demon. Furious, Satan lifted a huge boulder to destroy the bridge, but an old woman drew a cross on the rock and the devil was forced to abandon it. That boulder, the so-called Teufelsstein or Devil's Stone, is still visible today near the bridge: a considerable granite rock, moved in 1973 to allow the construction of a road tunnel, but preserved as a monument.
The legend is not just local folklore: it reflects the real difficulty that this stretch of road represented for medieval travelers. The Schöllenen was one of the most feared passages of the Alps, and the fact that someone had managed to build a bridge here truly seemed like a supernatural feat.
What you see walking on the bridge
Reaching the Devil's Bridge from Andermatt is simple: you follow the old cantonal road north towards Göschenen, and in about twenty minutes on foot, you descend into the gorge. The path is well marked and does not require special equipment, although closed shoes are recommended because the ground can be slippery near the water. The gray stone arch from 1830 is wide enough to allow pedestrians to pass in both directions, and from the center, there is a direct view of the stream flowing several meters below, green and white with foam.
Looking down, you can see how the rock has been smoothed and carved by the water over millennia, creating sinuous shapes that contrast with the precise geometry of the arch. A little further downstream, the silhouette of the old bridge from 1595 can be glimpsed, or rather what remains integrated into the rock face, a detail that many visitors miss because they do not know where to look. It is worth stopping for a few minutes in silence, or at least trying: the noise of the Reuss is constant and deafening.
Practical tips for the visit
The best time to visit the Devil's Bridge is early in the morning, between 8 and 10, when the side light enhances the color of the stone and organized groups have not yet filled the path. In summer, especially in July and August, the site can become crowded in the afternoon, also because it is along the route of many cyclists and walkers passing through San Gottardo. Access is free and does not require a reservation.
Andermatt can be reached by train from the Göschenen station, served by the line connecting Lucerne with Ticino, or by car via the A2 motorway. From Andermatt, the bridge can be reached on foot without the need for additional transport. Allowing a little over half an hour just for the bridge and the gorge is realistic, but those who want to explore the side trails of Schöllenen can easily take two hours. Bringing water is always a good idea: there are no refreshment points in the gorge.
