The cellars of Tokaj hold bottles that have traversed centuries of European history. The Tokaj wine region, in northeastern Hungary, was inscribed in 2002 on the UNESCO World Heritage List, a recognition that rewards not only the quality of the wines but also the landscape of terraced vineyards, underground cellars, and historic villages that stretch along the slopes of the Zemplén Mountains. It is here that Tokaji Aszú is born, the sweet wine that Louis XIV of France called “the king of wines and the wine of kings”, a quote that has entered the global wine legend.
The Hímesudvar Winery is located in the municipality of Tokaj, at the confluence of the Tisza River and the Bodrog. The winery represents one of the local production realities that keeps the Tokaji tradition alive, working with the indigenous grape varieties that have characterized this denomination for centuries. Visiting it means immersing oneself in a unique production system, where climatic conditions, volcanic soil, and the noble rot Botrytis cinerea combine to create wines that are impossible to replicate elsewhere.
The volcanic terroir that gives life to Tokaji
The soil of the Tokaj region is mainly composed of rhyolite and andesite, volcanic rocks that give the wines a distinctive minerality and an acidic structure that balances the residual sweetness. The vineyards are developed on slopes predominantly exposed to the south and southeast, at altitudes ranging from 100 to 400 meters above sea level. This geographical configuration, combined with the autumn mists rising from the Tisza and Bodrog rivers, creates the ideal conditions for the development of Botrytis cinerea, the noble rot that concentrates sugars and aromas in the affected grapes, locally called aszú.
The grape varieties grown in the area are mainly Furmint, the dominant and most long-lived variety, Hárslevelű, and Sárgamuskotály (Yellow Muscat). Furmint is particularly appreciated for its high acidity and aging potential: well-preserved bottles of Tokaji Aszú can maintain their organoleptic qualities for decades, and in some cases for over a century.
The Tokaji Aszú: how it is produced and what to expect in tasting
The production of Tokaji Aszú follows a traditional codified method. The botrytized grapes are harvested by hand, one by one, and measured in units called puttonyos, baskets of about 25 kilograms. The number of puttonyos added to the base wine determines the final sweetness of the product: the current official classification requires a minimum of 120 grams of residual sugar per liter to be designated as Aszú. The Eszencia, the most concentrated and rare version, can exceed 450 grams per liter.
During a tasting at Hímesudvar, the visitor can expect to perceive notes of dried apricot, acacia honey, saffron, and candied orange peel in the glass, with a finish that can linger for several minutes. The color ranges from intense gold to amber, depending on the age and concentration. The winery also offers the opportunity to taste dry wines made from Furmint, which in recent years have gained increasing international attention for their complexity and acidic freshness.
How to visit Hímesudvar and practical tips
Tokaj can be reached by train from Budapest in about 2.5-3 hours, with departures from the Keleti station. The town is small and almost everything is within walking distance once you arrive. The best season to visit the region is autumn, between September and November, when you can witness the grape harvest and closely observe the collection of aszú grapes. During this time, the roads between the vineyards are passable and the landscape is particularly picturesque.
For the visit to the winery, it is advisable to book in advance, especially during the harvest season when local wineries are very busy. Plan for at least 1.5-2 hours for a visit with tasting. Bring cash with you, as not all wineries accept credit cards. If you plan to purchase bottles, remember that Tokaji Aszú keeps excellently in the cellar and improves with age: there is no need to open it right away.
What to observe during the visit
The historic cellars of Tokaj are carved into volcanic tuff and covered by a dark layer of Cladosporium cellare, a fungus that regulates humidity and temperature inside the tunnels. This black patina on the walls is a visual indicator of the ideal environment for wine maturation and represents one of the most characteristic elements that visitors can physically observe by descending into the underground cellars. The internal temperature remains constant around 10-12 degrees Celsius throughout the year.
Walking among the vineyards, one can notice the diversity of soils: in some plots, gray volcanic rock emerges, while in others, the soil is more clayey and dark. This variability, concentrated in just a few square kilometers, contributes to the complexity of the wines produced in the denomination and explains why the concept of dűlő, a Hungarian term equivalent to the French cru, is so important for local quality producers.
