The walls of the Oremus cellars are covered with a dark and velvety layer of Cladosporium cellare, a noble mold that thrives in the constant humidity of the cellars and that local producers affectionately call fiókos. It is not a defect, but a biological signature of this place: its presence indicates that the temperature and humidity conditions have remained stable for centuries, protecting the barrels and the wines that age slowly in the tunnels dug beneath the hill of Tolcsva, in the heart of the Tokaj region.
The Oremus cellar is located in the village of Tolcsva, in northeastern Hungary, within the Tokaj wine region, which was inscribed in 2002 on the UNESCO World Heritage list as a historic cultural landscape. The property is managed by the Spanish group Vega Sicilia, which acquired Oremus in 1993, after the fall of the communist regime, investing in the restoration of the historic structures and in the recovery of traditional Tokaji Aszú production techniques. This continuity between Hungarian tradition and Spanish technical rigor is perceptible from the very first glass.
The volcanic terroir of Tokaj and the indigenous grape varieties
The Tokaj region owes its reputation to an unrepeatable combination of geological and climatic factors. The soils are of volcanic origin, rich in clay, loess, and rhyolitic tuff, and they retain summer heat, slowly releasing it in autumn. This characteristic, combined with the morning mists rising from the Bodrog and Tisza rivers, promotes the development of Botrytis cinerea, the noble rot that dehydrates the grapes, concentrating sugars, acids, and aromas.
The main grape varieties are Furmint, which represents the backbone of most Tokaj wines, and Hárslevelű, which is more aromatic and floral. Oremus also produces dry versions of pure Furmint, vinified without residual sugar, which reveal surprising saline minerality and acidic freshness. These dry wines are gaining international attention as an alternative to the sweet versions and represent an excellent starting point for those approaching the territory for the first time.
The Aszú: history and classification in puttonyos
The Tokaji Aszú is probably the oldest sweet wine in Europe to be produced using a documented method. The earliest written descriptions date back to the 17th century, and tradition holds that the first intentional late harvest of botrytized grapes occurred around 1630. The traditional classification is based on puttonyos, units of measurement that indicate the amount of botrytized grape paste added to the base wine: the higher the number, the more concentrated and sweet the result. Today, Hungarian regulations stipulate that an Aszú must have at least 120 grams of residual sugar per liter.
Oremus produces Aszú in the 5 and 6 puttonyos versions, in addition to the Essencia, obtained from the must that drips spontaneously from the botrytized grapes under their own weight, without pressing. The Essencia has such a high sugar content that it ferments very slowly, often reaching less than 2% alcohol, and is bottled in small formats of 100 milliliters. Tasting it is a rare experience: the texture is almost syrupy, with notes of dried apricot, saffron, and acacia honey that linger for minutes on the palate.
The visit to the winery: what to expect
Tastings take place in the historic vaulted cellars, some of which date back to the 18th century. Descending the stone steps, you enter an environment where the temperature remains constant around 10-12 degrees Celsius all year round. The black walls of Cladosporium, the oak barrels lined up in the corridors, and the dim light create an atmosphere that makes the tasting something more than just a simple wine trial. The visit routes usually include an explanation of the production process, a tour of the galleries, and the tasting of three or more labels, with the possibility to purchase the bottles directly at the winery.
Practical advice: it is strongly recommended to book the visit in advance, contacting the winery directly via email or phone, as groups are limited and tasting sessions are organized by appointment. Tolcsva can be reached by car from Miskolc in about an hour, or from Budapest in about two and a half hours. The best time to visit is in autumn, between September and November, when you can witness the harvest and see the botrytized grapes on the clusters still in the vineyard. Allow at least two hours for the complete visit, and wear a sweater even in summer: the cellars are cold.
Pairings and souvenirs to take home
Tokaji Aszú is traditionally paired with blue cheeses such as Roquefort or Gorgonzola, foie gras, and desserts made with dried fruit and caramel. In Hungary, it is also common to pair it with kürtőskalács, the typical sweet rolled on a cylinder, or to consume it as a meditation wine at the end of a meal. Oremus also offers the possibility to purchase bottles from previous vintages, some of which date back to the 1990s, representing a valuable souvenir for enthusiasts.
Taking home a bottle of Aszú means bringing a product that cannot be replicated elsewhere: the combination of volcanic soils, autumn fog, Botrytis, and centuries of tradition is closely tied to this corner of Hungary. A 500 milliliter bottle of Oremus 5 puttonyos Aszú costs approximately between 30 and 60 euros depending on the vintage, while the Essencia can exceed 100 euros for the 100 milliliter format.
