Top of the World
In the heart of Lucca, Italy, a fascinating tale of temptation and artistry unfolds at Palazzo Bernardini. This historical gem, nestled along Via Santa Croce, is not only a testament to the city’s architectural beauty but also a canvas for a curious legend about the devil himself.
History and Origins Lucca, founded by the Etruscans and later a Roman colony, is steeped in history. The city flourished during the Middle Ages, becoming a vital center for trade and culture. It was in the late 17th century that Martino Bernardini, a prominent nobleman, commissioned the construction of Palazzo Bernardini. This was a period when Lucca was asserting its independence, with the Bernardini family playing a significant role in the local aristocracy.
The palace was built on the site of a previous structure that housed an image of the Madonna, a detail that would shape its legacy. According to local lore, when Bernardini was advised to incorporate this sacred image into his new design, he instead heeded a devilish whisper that urged him to remove it. This decision led to the infamous bent window jamb, a permanent reminder of the nobleman’s folly. The architectural quirk has since become a symbol of temptation that even the most powerful of men can’t resist.
Art and Architecture Architecturally, Palazzo Bernardini is an exquisite example of Baroque style, characterized by ornate details and grandiose designs. The façade boasts rich decorations, with flowing lines and intricate carvings that reflect the opulence of the era. As you approach, your gaze is inevitably drawn to the unique window on the right of the entrance—the infamous bent jamb that tells its own story.
Inside, the palace features stunning frescoes and lavishly adorned rooms that highlight the artistic prowess of the period. The grand staircase, embellished with beautiful wrought iron railings, invites visitors to explore the various chambers filled with art and history. The building’s design harmonizes with Lucca’s medieval essence while showcasing the elegance of its Baroque renovations.
Local Culture and Traditions The culture of Lucca is rich and vibrant, punctuated by traditions that date back centuries. Among these is the Lucca Summer Festival, an annual event that attracts music lovers from around the world. Held in July, the festival takes place in the picturesque Piazza Napoleone, with performances ranging from pop and rock to classical music.
Another cherished tradition is the Festa di Santa Croce, celebrated in September, which involves a colorful procession through the streets, honoring the city's patron saint. Visitors can witness locals dressed in historical costumes, providing a glimpse into Lucca’s storied past.
Gastronomy No visit to Lucca is complete without indulging in its culinary delights. The region is known for its torta d'erbi, a savory pie filled with wild herbs and ricotta cheese, perfect for a light lunch. Another local specialty is lucchese-style tortellini, often served in broth or with a rich sauce.
Pair your meal with a glass of Montecarlo wine, a delightful white or red produced in the nearby hills. For dessert, don’t miss out on buccellato, a traditional sweet bread filled with raisins and anise seeds, often enjoyed during local festivities.
Lesser-Known Curiosities Beyond the famous stories, Lucca is full of hidden gems. One lesser-known fact is that the city is surrounded by well-preserved Renaissance walls, which you can walk or cycle around for stunning views of the city and beyond. A unique feature of these walls is the tree-lined promenade that runs along the top, providing a perfect escape from the bustling streets below.
Additionally, the Devil’s Stone legend extends beyond Palazzo Bernardini. It is said that there are several other locations in Lucca where the devil has left his mark, making for an intriguing exploration of the city’s darker tales.
Practical Visitor Information The best time to visit Lucca is during the spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) when the weather is mild, and the city is less crowded. Be sure to explore the cobblestone streets and enjoy the stunning architecture at a leisurely pace.
When visiting Palazzo Bernardini, look out for the unique window jamb and take the time to absorb the stories told by the palace’s walls. For a well-rounded experience, consider visiting other historical sites, such as the Cathedral of San Martino and the Torre Guinigi, which offers panoramic views of the city.
To enhance your travel experience in Lucca, consider using the Secret World app to craft a personalized itinerary that captures the essence of this enchanting city.
