At dawn, when the mist slowly rises from the surface of the water and envelops the wooded hills around, Sun Moon Lake — known in Chinese as Riyue Tan and sometimes referred to in Italian as Lake Sun and Moon — reveals its quietest nature. Located in Nantou County, in the mountainous heart of Taiwan, this body of water is situated at about 748 meters above sea level and is the largest natural lake on the island, with an area of about 7.93 square kilometers. The name derives from the shape of the basin itself: the eastern part is round like the sun, while the western part has a crescent shape.
Along the shores live the indigenous Thao communities, one of the recognized aboriginal peoples of Taiwan, who mainly inhabit the village of Ita Thao on the eastern shore. Their presence is not only cultural but also visible: along the village streets, there are stalls with traditional foods, local crafts, and the characteristic smell of rice cooked in bamboo leaves. The lake is not simply a natural backdrop — it is a lived territory, with historical layers that date back long before the arrival of Han settlers.
The colors of the lake at different times of the day
The light changes the lake radically depending on the hour. Early in the morning, between six and seven, the water reflects gray-silver tones with golden streaks when the sun filters through the peaks of the Nantou mountains. The fog, frequent especially in the wet seasons, creates a low layer that floats above the surface, making the silhouettes of the mountains barely perceptible in the background. It is the most photographed moment by visitors, and not without reason: the natural composition of water, fog, and forest is hard to replicate elsewhere in Taiwan.
In the afternoon, when the fog clears, the lake takes on more vivid colors: the dark green of the trees reflects in the water with an almost mirror-like clarity, and the tourist boats crossing the basin leave clearly visible white trails. At sunset, the western part of the lake — the crescent-shaped one — turns orange and pink, especially if one is on the Xiangshan Bridge, a pedestrian walkway that allows for unobstructed views of the scenery. The discreet and non-intrusive nighttime artificial lighting allows the reflection of the stars on the water to remain visible on clear nights.
The cycling path and the panoramic views
One of the most effective ways to observe the lake's landscapes from different angles is to travel the cycling path that circumnavigates the lake for about 33 kilometers. It is not necessary to complete it entirely: many visitors choose specific sections, such as the one between Shuishe and Ita Thao, which offers open views of the water without being interrupted by vehicle traffic. Bicycles can be easily rented near the main pier of Shuishe, with rates around 150-200 Taiwanese dollars per hour for a standard bike.
Along the route, the vegetation changes: one passes from areas with tall trees that filter light into vertical beams to more open stretches where the lake is visible in all its breadth. The Ci'en Pavilion, built in the 1950s at the behest of Chiang Kai-shek in memory of his mother, stands on a small peninsula and is also accessible on foot. From there, the view encompasses much of the basin, and on clear days, the lines of the mountains surrounding the lake on all sides are distinctly visible.
The boat trips through the fog
The public ferries connect the three main docks — Shuishe, Ita Thao, and Xuanguang — with a regular frequency throughout the day. The ticket for the complete round trip costs about 300 Taiwanese dollars and allows for free boarding and disembarking during the day. From the boat, the perspective is completely different from the shore: the mountains seem taller, the greenery denser, and on foggy mornings, there is a feeling of sailing in a space without precise boundaries.
On board, looking towards the shore of Ita Thao, you can see the houses of the Thao village resting on the hillside and, higher up, the forest that rises uninterruptedly towards the peaks. It is not uncommon to spot gray herons standing on the protruding rocks near the shore. Lalu Island, a small island in the center of the lake considered sacred by the Thao community, can be seen from the ferry with no possibility of landing: it is one of the few places on the lake where tourist access is prohibited out of respect for indigenous traditions.
Practical tips for visiting the lake
The best time to enjoy the views is early in the morning on weekdays, when tourists are fewer and the light is more interesting for photography. Weekends, especially during the high season from September to November, see a considerable influx of visitors from the western coast of Taiwan. To reach the lake from Taipei, the most convenient solution is to take the high-speed train to Taichung and then a direct bus to Shuishe, with a total journey of about two and a half hours. It is advisable to book accommodation in advance if you want to sleep directly on the shores of the lake, as hotels with water views tend to fill up quickly during holiday periods.
