The wind blows strong on the edge of the plateau as the path approaches the edge of the escarpment. Below, the ground drops about 1,500 meters in a series of vertical cliffs and barren valleys that seem to belong to another planet. We are in the Simien Mountains National Park, in northern Ethiopia, a few hours' drive from Gondar, and every step on the path reveals something unexpected: a herd of gelada grazing indifferent just a few meters from the walkers, or the silhouette of a Verreaux's eagle gliding without flapping its wings along the cliff.
The Simien Mountains National Park was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, among the first African sites to receive this recognition. The area protects a unique highland ecosystem, with peaks exceeding 4,500 meters — Ras Dashen, the highest peak in Ethiopia, reaches 4,550 meters — and is home to three endemic species of mammals: the gelada, the Ethiopian wolf, and the Walia ibex. Walking on these paths means traversing one of the most extraordinary natural environments on the African continent.
The main route: from Sankaber to Chenek
The most frequented stage by trekkers starts from the camp of Sankaber, located at about 3,260 meters above sea level, reachable in about three hours of dirt road driving from Gondar. From here, the main trail follows the edge of the escarpment to the northwest, passing through the fields of Gich and then Chenek, which is located at about 3,600 meters. The elevation gain between the various stages is relatively modest, but the altitude is felt from the first kilometers: the pace should be slowed down, and frequent breaks become a necessity as well as a pleasure.
The trail is not technically difficult for most of its length: it consists of beaten paths on grassy terrain, with rocky sections in places where the path descends towards small depressions. Along the way, one encounters villages of farmers who cultivate barley and teff on the terraces carved into the inner slopes of the park. The circular huts with thatched roofs, children guiding oxen in plowing, farmers wrapped in netela white: these human elements blend into the landscape so naturally that trekking also becomes an ethnographic experience.
The gelada: the close encounters that are remembered
Near Chenek and along the stretch between Sankaber and Gich, the groups of gelada — endemic monkeys of Ethiopia with the characteristic heart-shaped red chest — move in groups that can count hundreds of individuals. They are not used to fearing humans, and it happens to find oneself sitting on the edge of the escarpment with dozens of them less than two meters away, intent on picking grass with their fingers with almost mechanical precision.
The behavior of the gelada is one of the most unusual spectacles that a trekker can observe in Africa. Adult males emit complex vocalizations — a sort of rhythmic babbling — that ethologists have described as the most articulated communication system among non-human primates. Observing them at dawn, when they descend from the rocky walls where they sleep to return to the pastures, is an experience that alone justifies the effort of the approach.
The Ethiopian wolf: a rare but possible sighting
The Ethiopian wolf (Canis simensis) is one of the rarest canids in the world, with an estimated population of less than 500 individuals total, distributed in some areas of the Ethiopian highlands. In the Simien Mountains, the density is low compared to other areas like the Bale Mountains National Park, but sightings do exist, especially in the early morning hours along stretches of open grassland around Chenek. Its reddish-orange coat makes it recognizable even from a distance.
It is not guaranteed to see it, but the mere possibility changes the way one walks: one slows down, looks at the horizon more attentively, learns to read the landscape instead of just crossing it. This, perhaps, is the main quality of the trails in the Simien: they force one to be present.
Practical tips for trekking in the Simien
Access to the park is through the Debark gate, the nearest town to the entrance, located about 100 kilometers north of Gondar. From Gondar, you can reach Debark by local bus or rental vehicles. The park regulations require the presence of an armed guide for every group of trekkers — a mandatory safety measure that also incurs a cost included in the entrance permit. The best time to walk is during the dry season, from October to April: during the rainy season, between July and September, the trails become muddy and visibility drastically decreases due to low clouds.
Those planning to trek from Gondar can contact local agencies such as Simien Mountain Tour and Travel, based in Gondar, which organize packages that include a guide, a camp cook, mules for luggage, and camping equipment. Bringing layered clothing is essential: nighttime temperatures at the higher camps often drop below freezing even in the dry season, while during the day the highland sun can be very intense.
