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Naples is a city where the sacred and profane blend together in a uniquely colorful tapestry of traditions and beliefs. One of the most curious examples of this fusion is the local saying, "Va’ a vasà ‘o pesce ‘e San Rafèle"—literally, “Go kiss the fish of Saint Raphael.” This quirky phrase has deep roots in the city’s religious and folkloric heritage and ties into the long-standing Neapolitan ability to weave together humor, spirituality, and ancient customs.
The Origin of the Tradition
The expression originates from the Church of San Raffaele in the Materdei district of Naples, which was built in 1759. Inside this church, a statue of the Archangel Raphael can be seen holding a basket of fish—a reference to the biblical story of Tobias from the Book of Tobit. According to the tale, Raphael, disguised as a guide, helps Tobias on a perilous journey to save his family. Along the way, Tobias catches a fish from the Tigris River, extracts its organs, and uses them for healing purposes. These organs, particularly the fish’s gall, heart, and liver, help cure both his father’s blindness and his beloved’s suffering from an evil spirit.
This miraculous intervention is remembered in the church’s statue, but the Neapolitan tradition adds a colorful twist. Over time, “baciare il pesce di San Raffaele” (kissing the fish of Saint Raphael) has come to symbolize a hopeful act, particularly for women seeking marriage or fertility. The connection between fish and fertility is not accidental—fish are ancient symbols of abundance and life, deeply embedded in both pagan and Christian symbolism.
Sacred Ritual or Fertility Blessing?
The act of kissing the fish is thought to bring good luck, especially for young women looking to marry or conceive. While this may seem a strictly Christian practice, scholars believe it carries remnants of ancient pagan fertility rituals from Campania, mixed over time with Catholic teachings. Fish, often associated with the sea and fertility, have always held a prominent place in the local culture.
This tradition even found its way into Neapolitan music, specifically in the song Italiella by the Nuova Compagnia di Canto Popolare, which tells the story of the wife of King Vittorio Emanuele, who kisses the fish of Saint Raphael in hopes of conceiving an heir.
A City of Humorous Dual Meanings
Of course, as with many things in Naples, there is an ever-present layer of humor. In Neapolitan dialect, "pesce" (fish) can carry a double entendre, leading the phrase "Va’ a vasà ‘o pesce ‘e San Rafèle" to take on a cheekier tone. The playful spirit of Naples finds a way to merge religious reverence with a wink and a nod, reminding us of the city’s ability to balance solemnity with irreverence.
A Living Tradition
Despite the humorous undertones, the ritual remains a cherished part of Neapolitan life, representing hope, faith, and the city’s deep connection to both its sacred and profane past. In Naples, where history and mythology, the sacred and the irreverent, are always intertwined, kissing the fish of San Raphael continues to be a charmingly Neapolitan act of devotion.
In this city, one never knows where the next miracle—or joke—might be found.
