Top of the World
Tucked away in the heart of Amsterdam, the Begijnhof offers a serene escape from the bustling city streets, immersing visitors in a tapestry of history and culture that dates back to the Middle Ages. This enchanting inner court, with its tranquil garden and historic buildings, is a living testament to the city's rich past and the enduring legacy of the Beguines—a semi-monastic community of women who played a pivotal role in its creation.
The history of the Begijnhof begins in the 14th century, around 1346, when it was established as a sanctuary for the Beguines. These women led lives of piety and charity, similar to nuns but with more autonomy, as they could leave the community to marry if they chose. The Begijnhof was one of the few places in Amsterdam that remained Catholic after the Protestant Reformation, a testament to its significance and resilience. Despite changes over the centuries, such as the introduction of Protestant worship in the nearby English Reformed Church in 1607, the Begijnhof retained its Catholic identity, symbolized by the clandestine Catholic chapel hidden within its walls.
The art and architecture of the Begijnhof reflect its storied past. The courtyard is lined with charming gabled houses, many of which date back to the 17th century, though their facades often mask much older structures. Among these, the Houten Huys (Wooden House) stands out as the oldest wooden house in Amsterdam, dating to around 1528. Its Gothic-style architecture offers a rare glimpse into a bygone era, as few wooden buildings survived the city's numerous fires. The Begijnhof Chapel, with its understated Baroque interior, is adorned with religious art that speaks to the deep faith of the community that once worshipped there.
The local culture and traditions surrounding the Begijnhof are deeply intertwined with its Catholic heritage. Though the last Beguine passed away in 1971, the spirit of the community lives on. The courtyard is still a place of quiet reflection and spiritual solace, hosting occasional religious ceremonies and events. The nearby English Reformed Church continues to hold services in English, maintaining a tradition that dates back to the 17th century when English and Scottish Presbyterians found refuge in Amsterdam.
While the Begijnhof itself may not be a culinary destination, the surrounding gastronomy of Amsterdam offers plenty of local flavors to savor. Nearby, you can indulge in traditional Dutch treats such as stroopwafels—thin, crispy waffles filled with caramel syrup—or sample hearty dishes like erwtensoep, a rich pea soup perfect for warming up on a chilly day. For a more substantial meal, try hutspot, a comforting mash of potatoes, carrots, and onions often served with meat.
One of the lesser-known curiosities of the Begijnhof is its connection to the Miracle of Amsterdam, an event that took place in 1345. According to legend, a dying man was given the Holy Eucharist, which he later vomited but did not burn when thrown into the fire. This miracle led to the establishment of the annual Stille Omgang procession, a silent walk through the city that continues to this day, attracting thousands of pilgrims.
For those planning to visit, the practical visitor information is straightforward yet crucial for a fulfilling experience. The Begijnhof is open daily, but it is advised to visit between mid-morning and early afternoon to avoid the crowds and experience the courtyard in its most tranquil state. Photography is allowed but should be done respectfully, considering that the Begijnhof remains a private residential area. Take the time to explore the hidden corners and appreciate the subtle beauty of this historical site. Additionally, the nearby Spui square offers a cozy spot to unwind with a cup of Dutch coffee after your visit.
In the midst of Amsterdam's vibrant urban landscape, the Begijnhof remains a poignant reminder of a quieter, more contemplative past. Its enduring charm lies not only in its historical significance but also in its ability to provide a peaceful haven for those who seek to connect with the city's rich cultural tapestry.
