Top of the World
In the heart of Matera, a city renowned for its ancient cave dwellings and ethereal beauty, the humble dish of cicoria e fave tells a story rich with tradition and cultural significance. As you wander the winding streets of this UNESCO World Heritage site, the aroma of this simple yet deeply flavorful dish invites you to explore not just the culinary delights of the region, but also its intricate history and vibrant culture.
Dating back thousands of years, Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. The area, first settled in the Paleolithic era, has seen a tapestry of civilizations come and go, from the Romans to the Byzantines. Each left their mark, but perhaps none as indelibly as the cave dwellings known as the Sassi di Matera. These ancient homes, carved into the limestone hills, serve as a testament to the resilience and ingenuity of its people. The Sassi, once abandoned and neglected, have now been rejuvenated, hosting a blend of rustic charm and modern amenities, drawing visitors from around the globe.
The architecture of Matera is a fascinating blend of ancient and medieval styles, with the Matera Cathedral standing proudly as a beacon of Romanesque architecture. Completed in 1270, its intricate façade and frescoes inside depict a rich religious narrative. Walking through the city, you’ll also find the Church of San Pietro Caveoso, perched dramatically on the edge of a ravine, offering breathtaking views and a spiritual connection to the land.
Matera is not only a feast for the eyes but also for the soul, with its lively cultural scene. The annual Matera Film Festival celebrates cinematic arts with screenings set against the dramatic backdrop of the ancient cityscape. Meanwhile, the Festa della Bruna, held each July, is a local tradition dating back over 600 years. It culminates in a spectacular parade and the ritual destruction of a papier-mâché float, symbolizing renewal and resilience.
No exploration of Matera would be complete without indulging in its gastronomy. The dish of cicoria e fave is emblematic of the region's culinary philosophy: simple, fresh ingredients transformed into something extraordinary. The broad beans, dried and pureed, combine with the slightly bitter bite of chicory, seasoned with the region's famed extra virgin olive oil. This dish is often accompanied by Pane di Matera, a bread made from durum wheat semolina, known for its crusty exterior and soft, porous interior. Local wines, such as the robust Aglianico del Vulture, complete the culinary experience, offering a taste of the rich soil and sunny vineyards of Basilicata.
While Matera’s iconic landscapes and flavors captivate, there are lesser-known curiosities that add depth to its story. Beneath the city lies a network of ancient cisterns and aqueducts, a marvel of engineering that sustained the city for centuries. Palombaro Lungo, the largest of these cisterns, is open to visitors, providing a glimpse into the ingenious water management system of old. Additionally, the city has a historical connection to Carlo Levi, an Italian writer and painter whose book, "Christ Stopped at Eboli," brought attention to the harsh conditions of the region in the 1930s, sparking social reform.
For those planning a visit, the best time to explore Matera is during the spring or fall when the weather is mild, and the city is less crowded. Comfortable walking shoes are a must, given the city’s uneven stone paths. As you traverse the Sassi, take a moment to enjoy the panoramic views from Belvedere di Murgia Timone, where the landscape unfolds like a painted canvas.
In Matera, the past and present intertwine seamlessly, offering an experience that engages all the senses. Whether savoring the local cuisine or exploring the depths of its history, Matera invites you to discover a world where time seems to stand still, yet vibrates with life and culture.
