At an altitude of 1,950 meters above sea level, Hallasan Mountain is the highest point in South Korea, a dormant shield volcano that dominates the entire island of Jeju. Climbing along its less frequented trails means traversing ecosystems that change every few hundred meters of elevation: first the subtropical vegetation of the coast, then oak and cedar forests, and finally the open expanses of alpine meadows where the wind blows unobstructed. Hallasan National Park, established in 1970, protects this territory and has been part of the UNESCO natural heritage since 2007, along with other geological areas of the island.
Among the trails that ascend to the summit, the Donnaeko trail — which starts from the Seogwipo area on the southern slope — attracts fewer visitors compared to the more famous Seongpanak and Eorimok trails, while still offering some of the most intense views of the entire mountain. The route extends for about 9 kilometers uphill, with an elevation gain that requires between five and six hours of round-trip walking. It does not lead to the summit of the Baengnokdam crater, but it leads to the Witse Oreum shelter, from which the view of the plateau is already extraordinary.
The ancient yew forests along the southern slope
In the first kilometers of the Donnaeko trail, the path winds through a dense and silent forest where centuries-old specimens of Japanese yew (Taxus cuspidata) grow. The twisted trunks covered in moss create a natural gallery almost impenetrable to light, with roots emerging from the ground like fingers. This type of vegetation is rare at these latitudes and gives the initial stretch of the path an almost archaic atmosphere, very different from that of the more frequented trails on the northern slope.
Walking carefully, one notices the red berries of the yews that in autumn dot the underbrush, while in spring the ground is covered by a compact layer of mosses and ferns. The informational signs along the route — in Korean and English — indicate the protected species and remind visitors of the absolute prohibition against collecting any natural elements, a rule strictly enforced by the park rangers.
The blooming of royal azaleas in spring
Between April and May, climbing above 1,400 meters in altitude, the landscape changes radically. The alpine meadows are covered with royal azaleas (Rhododendron schlippenbachii), a species that produces flowers of an intense pink, almost violet, that blanket the open slopes for weeks. The period of most abundant blooming generally falls in the second half of April, but it depends on seasonal temperatures and can vary by a few weeks. During these days, the contrast between the pink of the flowers and the still tender green of the grass that is regrowing is visually very strong.
The royal azaleas grow in low, compact bushes, adapted to the constant wind of the higher altitudes. Walking the final stretch towards the Witse Oreum shelter, one literally walks among these flowering shrubs, which at some points reach shoulder height. It is one of the few places in South Korea where it is possible to observe this species in such density and in such an open context.
How to Organize the Ascent Practically
The Donnaeko trail starts from the parking lot of the same name, reachable in about 40 minutes by bus from Seogwipo station. Entrance to the park is free, but there are strict access times that vary seasonally: in summer, it is generally possible to start the hike until 12:00 for routes that do not reach the summit, while in winter the limit is lower. It is essential to check the updated times on the official park website before departing, as rangers block access to latecomers without exceptions.
The minimum recommended equipment includes sturdy-soled hiking shoes — the trail has sections on slippery volcanic rock when wet — and at least two liters of water per person, as there are limited supply points along the Donnaeko route compared to other trails. Avoid mid-April weekends if you are looking for tranquility: coinciding with the blooming of the azaleas, this secondary trail also sees a significant influx of Korean hikers who come specifically from Seoul and the mainland cities.
What is at the top of the trail
The endpoint of the Donnaeko trail, the Witse Oreum shelter, is an essential structure where you can rest and enjoy simple meals purchased on-site. From here, there is a view of the central plateau of Hallasan with the secondary volcanic cones — the so-called oreum — that dot the landscape in all directions. Jeju has over 360 of them, and from the top of the southern trail, several can be recognized at the same time.
Descending, especially in the late afternoon, the slanting light illuminates the yew forest traversed on the way up differently, revealing details that were in shadow in the morning. It is at this moment that the Donnaeko trail shows its quietest nature: most hikers have already descended, and the forest resumes its slow rhythm, indifferent to visitors.
