Top of the World
Traveling along the Amalfi Coast from the north, the final pearl is Vietri sul Mare. It lays nestled next to the Gulf of Salerno in a scenic position, overlooked by the shining dome made from maiolica pottery of the Church of Saint Giovanni Battista, immediate evidence of the affinity for ceramics in the town. In Vietri, which is the capital of ceramics for the Campania region, the maiolica tradition first developed in the Middle Ages. Over the centuries this saga of ceramics has been enriched with new ornamental motifs, starting from the peacock and the palm, and the 15-16th century production of tiles for decorating buildings (like the dome of the church) and floors, with a palette inclined towards brown (the unmistakable mark of Vietri) and the turquoise of landscape decorations, right up to the first decades of the 20th century, when it launched itself into the European sphere thanks to the impulse of artists coming from Holland and Germany. It was one of these artists, Richard Dölker, who turned the donkey into an international icon. Today, the ceramics of Vietri are unmistakable for their geometric motifs, essential lines and chromatic contrasts that shine with brightness and harmony, reflecting all of their Amalfi essence. For this reason, going for a walk in the districts of the center is like taking a bath of color: the mosaics of multicolored majolica are everywhere, covering houses, stairways and the facades of shops that overflow with ceramic objects. And there are all imaginable types: tiles that describe scenes of everyday life, the simple life of a seaside village, the sun, the vibrant blue sea, vegetable decorations and the ever-present bright yellow lemons. If you make your way to the Casilette neighborhood, in a square you will discover a mosaic that contains moving poetry: “tiempi bielli e’ ‘na vota”(beautiful times, once upon a time), singing of the simple life “senza malignità”(without malice) of these places. And speaking of the good old days, if you would like to learn more about the history of Vietri ceramics, you can visit the Provincial Ceramics Museum at the Villa Guariglia in Raito in Vietri sul Mare, where you will take an exciting journey into styles from the 18th century to the first half of the 20th century.
