Sixty meters of red bricks rising above the dusty plain: the Thatbyinnyu Temple is the tallest in Bagan, and this single measurement already tells something of the ambition with which King Alaungsithu had it built in the 12th century, around 1144. Two overlapping floors — a terraced structure that the Burmese call pahto — house within them statues of the Buddha and semi-dark corridors traversed by monks and pilgrims. From the outside, the white and golden silhouette visually dominates the entire Bagan complex, recognizable even from several kilometers away.
Bagan is not just a site: it is a plain of about 40 square kilometers along the Irrawaddy River where more than 2,000 religious structures — pagodas, temples, stupas — were built between the 9th and 13th centuries during the era of the Pagan kingdom. Walking among these monuments means traversing centuries of Buddhist devotion in architectural form, where every curve of brick tells of a royal commission, a donation, a vow.
The story behind the stones
Alaungsithu, nephew of the great king Kyanzittha, reigned for over sixty years and left Bagan some of the most elaborate structures of the period. The Thatbyinnyu — whose name in Burmese means approximately "omniscience," one of the attributes of the Buddha — was conceived as a theological and architectural synthesis: the lower level is dedicated to the Buddha of the past, while the upper level is dedicated to the Buddha of the present. This vertical duality is reflected in the façade, where stone lattice windows filter light in different ways depending on the time of day.
The temple was built entirely of bricks, like almost all the structures in Bagan, but it stands out for its unusual height and for the presence of a separate library in the courtyard. In the following centuries, the site suffered significant damage due to the earthquake of 1975, which severely affected the entire area of Bagan, and due to subsequent restoration interventions that were not always carried out according to rigorous conservation criteria — an issue that long complicated the UNESCO recognition of the site, which finally occurred in 2019.
What to Observe Up Close
As you approach Thatbyinnyu, the first thing that strikes you is the texture of the surface: the original 12th-century bricks coexist with sections of more recent restoration, and the trained eye can distinguish the two eras by the color and regularity of the laying. Inside, the ground floor corridors lead to a large statue of the seated Buddha, surrounded by offerings of fresh lotus flowers that pilgrims deposit every morning.
Climbing to the upper levels is not always possible for visitors — access depends on local policies in effect at the time of the visit — but even from the base, one can observe the structure of the ornamental windows, with geometric and floral patterns typical of Mon art, the artistic tradition that profoundly influenced the builders of Bagan. Outside, in the courtyard, a small brick structure is identified as the ancient library of the temple: one of the rare architectural elements that have survived in the area.
The sunrise in a hot air balloon: the most famous way to see Bagan
No account of Bagan would be honest without mentioning the hot air balloons. At sunrise, when the morning mist rises from the Irrawaddy and settles among the spires of the temples, a dozen colorful balloons lift off above the plain. From that altitude — between 300 and 600 meters — the density of the monuments becomes visually understandable: thousands of structures dotting the red earth in every direction, with the Thatbyinnyu emerging as a vertical landmark.
Hot air balloon flights over Bagan typically depart at sunrise and last about an hour. The cost is around 350-400 dollars per person, depending on the operator. Reservations should be made well in advance, especially between November and February, which is the dry and busiest season. Those who prefer to stay on the ground can still enjoy the sunrise by climbing up to some viewpoints in the temples open to the public — the Shwesandaw Pagoda, not far from the Thatbyinnyu, is one of the most used spots for this purpose.
Practical Information for the Visit
Entry to the archaeological area of Bagan requires the purchase of a pass for 25,000 kyat (about 10-12 dollars, subject to change), valid for multiple days. The most convenient way to get around the temples is to rent an electric bicycle, available in nearby villages for a few dollars a day. Thatbyinnyu is located in the central area of Bagan, easily reachable in a few minutes from Nyaung-U, the main inhabited center of the area.
The best times to visit the temple are early in the morning, when the slanting light enhances the architectural details and the heat is still bearable. During the summer months, between June and September, the monsoon rains make the area less crowded but add an intense chromatic quality to the landscape. Wearing easily removable shoes is essential: access to Buddhist temples requires removing footwear before entering.
