The water falls for 60 meters with a width of about 25 meters, and the roar can be heard from the parking lot. Skógafoss is one of the most photographed waterfalls in Iceland, but most visitors stop at the foot of the fall, take a few photos in the water mist, and leave. Few know that a metal staircase on the right side of the waterfall leads up to the top, and from there begins one of the most stunning views of the entire southern coast of Iceland.
The Skógá river originates on the slopes of the Eyjafjallajökull glacier — the same volcano that in 2010 grounded European air traffic for weeks — and flows down to the sea through a gorge carved in volcanic rock. Along this route, in the section that most tourists never reach, there are dozens of smaller waterfalls, some just a few meters high, others more imposing, all devoid of crowds.
The staircase and the first view of the valley
The staircase next to Skógafoss has about 370 steps and is accessible for free. The climb takes five to ten minutes at a normal pace, but it is worth every single step. From the platform at the top, the view opens up towards the sea: on clear days, the southern coast of Iceland can be seen, and in the morning hours, the slanting light transforms the white foam of the waterfall into something almost metallic, with silvery reflections contrasting with the intense green of the moss on the rocks.
In the central hours of the day, especially in summer when the sun hardly sets, the colors change completely. The green of the vegetation becomes more saturated, the black of the basalt rock absorbs the light, and the waterfall loses its lunar quality to become something warmer, almost golden. Those who have the patience to wait for the late afternoon, when the light comes in obliquely from the west, witness a third version of the same landscape: long shadows, sharp contrasts, and often a rainbow forming in the mist at the foot of the waterfall — a phenomenon that occurs with great regularity due to the position of the waterfall in relation to the afternoon sun.
The path along the river: the forgotten waterfalls
From the upper edge of Skógafoss begins the Fimmvörðuháls trail, a trekking route that connects the southern coast with Þórsmörk through a mountain pass. It is not necessary to walk the entire route to enjoy the smaller waterfalls: already in the first two or three kilometers along the Skógá river, one encounters a series of waterfalls that in any other country would be top tourist destinations. Here they are simply part of the daily landscape.
The terrain is uneven, with grassy stretches and areas where the volcanic rock emerges bare and slippery. The waterfalls along this stretch have a completely different character from Skógafoss: some fall into narrow and deep pools, others disperse over mossy rock walls in a thousand thin streams. The noise is constant but changes tone at every bend in the path. The valley gradually widens as one ascends, and looking back towards the sea, one sees the flat line of the coast with the black of the volcanic sand beach.
Colors and light at different times of the day
Southern Iceland has a quality of light that changes radically depending on the hour. At dawn — which in summer can arrive before four in the morning — the waterfall is enveloped in a pink light that lasts just a few minutes and makes the basalt almost purple. At this moment, the parking lot is almost always empty, and the path to the upper waterfalls is completely deserted.
At noon, the light is flat and less interesting for photographers, but ideal for walking: the details of the rock, the texture of the moss, and the exact color of the water — a green-gray with turquoise reflections in the calmer pools — are better seen. The summer sunset, which in July can occur around eleven in the evening, gives the waterfall its most dramatic quality back: horizontal light, shadows stretching out to the sea, and a relative silence that is impossible to find during the day.
Practical tips for the visit
Skógafoss is located in the village of Skógar, along Route 1 (Ring Road), about 150 kilometers east of Reykjavík. Access to the waterfall and the staircase is free; there is a paid parking nearby. For those who want to hike the trail to the upper waterfalls, waterproof shoes with non-slip soles are essential: the ground is often wet even in summer. The best time to avoid the crowd is before eight in the morning or after six, when the tour buses have already left. Bring layers of clothing even in summer: at the top of the staircase, the wind can be strong and the temperature drops significantly compared to the base.
For those with time, the Skógar Museum (Skógasafn), located a short walk from the waterfall, houses a collection of objects from Icelandic rural life that helps to contextualize the landscape you are in. The combination of the trail along the river and a visit to the museum typically takes a full half day.
